RustyRatRod said

I wouldn't worry about intake heat. But then, I also live in Georgia. But I wouldn't worry about it anywhere. Although it will be somewhat cold natured, it will warm up fine and run fine, especially with a larger, richer carburetor.

Yes, I would go with whatever size pipe the header collector is and not make a reduction there. Never been a fan of reducer collectors. After all, headers are a performance mod and if you're reducing the size of the pipe, how can that help performance?

I know all the exhaust experts will start talkin about back pressure this and that blah blah blah, but they don't their *** from a hole in the ground. Want more power? Bigger exhaust. Period.

Maybe the only exception being with a turbo build.

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slantsixdan said

Don't pick carbs by CFM numbers. In the first place, many of the numbers thrown around are fictional. In the second place, even if you have accurate numbers, they're often not comparable between different kinds of carbs (1bbl, 2bbl, 4bbl).

Link: This guy.

If the engine is in basically sound condition, it's usually best and most cost-effective to focus on external upgrades and save the internal ones until there's a good reason to open up the engine. The semi-exception would be if your timing chain has enough wear to have developed slack; this will retard the cam timing and take a big bite out of performance and efficiency. Check it as described here.

Other external upgrades that give good value for money/time/effort invested: better ignition (with a distributor thoughtfully recurved to match your driving conditions; get with DusterIdiot over on slantsix.org about that), exhaust system upgrade as described here, and non-engine upgrades described in this post.

Oh, one other thing: Yes, "worry about" (make/keep provisions for) intake heat. It's not a hot/cold weather thing. See here and here.

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