Beyond Frustrated - Wont start/stay running

And sneaky tip # 674
The condenser does not need to be mounted inside the dizzy. For testing purposes, you can just clip it anywhere in the circuit, and ground it.

And tip #675
The points have to snap open and snap shut,make and break.The contact made has to be instantaneous and complete. That means the contacts have to be FLAT and CLEAN. That's why they are called breaker points. When the get dirty or pitted, they will make your life miserable and break your patience.
And tip #832
When the cranking speed gets to be really slow, then the break time gets to be really long, and then the coil gets a really lousy charge and most of it leaks away through the condenser or wherever it can, and then it can appear that your coil is dying;when if fact, the cranking speed just needs to be increased.
And tip # 999
When I suspect a weak point-type ignition, I remove the cap from the D and jam a piece of clean,dry paper between the points, so they have to remain apart. Then I put a 3ft jumper on the coil neg.. Then I get my 15" flat bastard file and lay that on a good ground. Then I remove the coil hi-tension wire from the cap and near-ground it.Then I make sure the battery is at a strong level. Then I clip the free end of my jumper onto an insulator while I go and turn the key to RUN. Then I take that free-end and lightly drag it across the file, while watching the coil wire. A stream of sparks should be issuing from it. That file is acting like a clean set of points and because the engine is not cranking,and the ballast is cold, there is a good supply voltage to the coil, very near to the battery's rest voltage. So then there should be a stream of sparks.
If there is not; then this is the time to suspect the condenser; just clip a new one into the circuit anywhere and ground the case. Then retest. If now you get the expected results, then wire the condenser in properly and retest. If now it works then turn off the key,put it all together, and finish up. But if it still doesn't work properly, check the D for point plate to engine block continuity. And the condenser to breaker continuity.Then retest.
That's what I do.

Lest you think you can do the same thing without the file, fugedabowdit!. You cannot make and break that circuit fast enough with muscle power,lol. It has to snap open and snap shut. Doing it by hand will just let the voltage all leak away. Electricity is waaay faster than you,lol.