68Barracuda dash bezel removal
So how I remove the center cones ( probably are several methods )...I reach under a face down bezel and pull the cone with finger tips applying pressure against the lens while I heat the melt stakes with a solder tip. Brim of the bezel pressing against my forearm. Working from one stake to another trying to heat all at once, the cone slowly pulls away leaving a tiny donut of white plastic on the back of the lens. Those will pop right off with a razor blade and I have been known to reuse some of those in reassembly. Next is same but different separation of lens and metal matting ring from the bezel. By the way... The 2 large lenses do appear the same but they are not interchangeable. To remove the green lenses ( 2 melt stakes each ) eraser end of a broken pencil applies pressure from underneath the lens. Solder tip gets to one melt stake easy enough but the other down in there is a biotch. So with a little heat and effort I tilt the lens out from under that one ( the lens is slotted rather than holes at those stakes ) The red lenses are barely glued in and typically pop right out. I don't know if any aftermarket vendor offers the adhesive backed foam gasket rings for these 4 indicator lenses. I just make 2 new gaskets for the red lenses. Gaskets at green lenses usually stay in the pot metal housing and reuse without issue.
Are we having fun yet? Honestly, even at 750 bucks the aftermarket reproduction bezel aint a bad deal considering the time/labor/expense of restoring OEM. My reason for learning and doing all this was my wanting something other than OEM ( see pic ).
One more note just incase you do pursue this project... The lens and metal matt at the right hand 4 inst' pod needs to be reattached as good as you can get it. Why? The OEM fuel gauge is chassis grounded, and everything about the ALT' gauge is firecracker hot. If/when the metal matt falls against these instruments, sparks fly, fuel gauge needle turns to ash and disappears in milliseconds. This did happen when a owner tapped on the lens because a inst' wasn't functioning correctly.
Oh and your tach question... Year One and other vendors offer new modern tachs built specifically for this application / bolt right into your center pod.
So how I remove the center cones ( probably are several methods )...I reach under a face down bezel and pull the cone with finger tips applying pressure against the lens while I heat the melt stakes with a solder tip. Brim of the bezel pressing against my forearm. Working from one stake to another trying to heat all at once, the cone slowly pulls away leaving a tiny donut of white plastic on the back of the lens. Those will pop right off with a razor blade and I have been known to reuse some of those in reassembly. Next is same but different separation of lens and metal matting ring from the bezel. By the way... The 2 large lenses do appear the same but they are not interchangeable. To remove the green lenses ( 2 melt stakes each ) eraser end of a broken pencil applies pressure from underneath the lens. Solder tip gets to one melt stake easy enough but the other down in there is a biotch. So with a little heat and effort I tilt the lens out from under that one ( the lens is slotted rather than holes at those stakes ) The red lenses are barely glued in and typically pop right out. I don't know if any aftermarket vendor offers the adhesive backed foam gasket rings for these 4 indicator lenses. I just make 2 new gaskets for the red lenses. Gaskets at green lenses usually stay in the pot metal housing and reuse without issue.
Are we having fun yet? Honestly, even at 750 bucks the aftermarket reproduction bezel aint a bad deal considering the time/labor/expense of restoring OEM. My reason for learning and doing all this was my wanting something other than OEM ( see pic ).
One more note just incase you do pursue this project... The lens and metal matt at the right hand 4 inst' pod needs to be reattached as good as you can get it. Why? The OEM fuel gauge is chassis grounded, and everything about the ALT' gauge is firecracker hot. If/when the metal matt falls against these instruments, sparks fly, fuel gauge needle turns to ash and disappears in milliseconds. This did happen when a owner tapped on the lens because a inst' wasn't functioning correctly.
Oh and your tach question... Year One and other vendors offer new modern tachs built specifically for this application / bolt right into your center pod.
