Adjustable strut rods post-install thoughts

chillent said

So I am now trying to research why my car seems to be different than others regarding where the wheel is in the wheel opening on my car. Doing this as result of trying to get a 26" tire in the front which others seem to be able to do... I am coming across the condition described above and wondering how an adjustable strut rod works and if it would help this condition? I just can't wrap my head around the strut rod helping to push/pull the LCA fore/aft in the chassis? Isn't the LCA in a fixed position pivoting on the kmember? My front suspension is all stock '74 abody stuff

Please help me fix this!

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Man that first photo is screwy looking to me. The badges say front fender. The wheel/tire looks too far forward in that wheel well. Then the upper right corner of the pic suggests rear window, sail panel angle area. Optical illusions I guess. Anyway...
With OEM lower arm bushings being press fit bonded rubber construction, the lower arm position is fixed until that bonded rubber fails. It's those aftermarket toss it in plastic bushings that allow the lower arm to move around, slide rearward. The adjustable strut rods draw the arm forward at the lower ball joint end creating resistance at the bushing on pin end.
The one post above shows a bolt holding the arm on the pin but the hex socket for torsion bar is MIA. We'll assume coil over suspension there.
I wonder if anyone has tried a mod to push and hold the rear end of the torsion bars where factory placed a simple wire retainer? So long as I avoid plastic bushings, I don't need answers to those questions.