Pride gone... asking for help

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Get yourself a piece of brass stock, take the rockers off and give the top of the valves a good hit with the brass touching the top of the valve and a hammer, you may free them up.
 
remove rockers and Hit them valve stems with a penetrating oil, or 50/50 kerosene and ATF mix and a light hammer. Even a little tap at TDC wont hurt the piston. all you want to do is break the seizure. The springs may help to pull the valves up overnight if you just soak them all.
 
Welcome -- From Pa. -- As You've already seen, there's lots of help. here.
 
With a new Gas tank and empty fuel line my fuel pump wouldn't pull the gas up from the tank. Got a turkey Baster and after a few pulls got gas down to the end of the fuel line. Put the line on the fuel pump and it worked.
 
pishta said:
remove rockers and Hit them valve stems with a penetrating oil, or 50/50 kerosene and ATF mix and a light hammer. Even a little tap at TDC wont hurt the piston. all you want to do is break the seizure. The springs may help to pull the valves up overnight if you just soak them all.
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that worked for me a couple of times. i mean probably 20 times on two different slants. It was quite awhile ago, but i think i even bumped the valves back up a little with the pistons on a couple of the most stubborn ones. Penetrating oil is your friend and recoiless (deadblow)hammer will help. If you take the rocker shaft off, make sure you put it back with the correct orientation, or it won't oil properly.
 
Mghampton said:
Can't upload photo .... not rockers are loose. #1 works #2 exhaust stuck #3 both stuck. #4 intake stuck. #5 works #6 both stuck. By stuck I mean rockers loose.... not touching pushed. It's freakish hot here so plz excuse misuse of words lol
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Rods bent... oil hasn't circulated up into valve cover either
 
If you test the rockers and the cam on that valve is such that it should be closed there WILL be some looseness in the rocker. This engine has a mechanical cam and a small amount of lash is normal when the valve should be closed. It should be somewhere in the .015 to .020" range for that engine if set right; normal wear will make it bigger if no one ever adjusted it. If the 'looseness' you find is this small, then the valve is not necessarily stuck.

But... on an engine that is this old, it would be possible that the the valve guides are sticky and the valves are hanging not closing quickly. AND, I would bet on some of the rings being stuck at this age and lack of running. You need to get it running a bit before you can evaluate the rings and valves sticking. If you want to, spray some carb cleaner in the valves springs at the valve stem and then crank; that will work some cleaner down the guides and loosen any gum in the guides. (It will also finish off the valve stem seals, but they are dried/cracked/shot to heck by now anyway.)

I am not convinced that you yet have good spark, based on your writings. Putting a spark plug on the end of a plug wire and looking for spark in open air across the gap is a useless test. It only takes a few thousand volts to jump the small spark plug gap in open air, but it takes 20,000 volts or more to jump that same plug gap in a compressed fuel air mixture.

Go back and place the spark wire from the coil so that the open end of that wire (when pulled off of the cap) is about 1/4" to 3/8" from metal, like the inner fender or the valve cover. Then crank and see if the sparks jump that size of open air gap with a hot looking blue spark.

And you said you have 6 volts at the coil; that is good under certain conditions but not others. When the engine is cranking, the voltage at coil + should be only 1 volt or less than the battery voltage when cranking. So measure your battery + while cranking and then measure the coil + voltage when cranking and find the difference; let us know what you find.

BTW, what ballast resistor did you put in? Many ballasts are wrong for the Mopar system.

Did you scrape the metal under the ECM clean so that the ECM gets a good ground? That is vital.

Measure resistance of each spark plug wire and the coil spark wire end-to-end; they should typically be in the 5-10k range.

When you try to start, use 1/2 tablespoon or so of FRESH gas dribbled down the carb at a time. That amount should allow the engine to fire and run for 1-2 seconds.
 
Mghampton said:
Rods bent... oil hasn't circulated up into valve cover either
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Man, those valves are stuck hard.

BTW.....It takes a long time for the oil to come up to the /6 rockers like 10-20 seconds to see it come out when running... and even then, it just dribbles out of the rocker tops. The flow is normally restricted. So not seeing any now is not conclusive.
 
Alright guys, talked it over with my dad. As said in my first post.... normally GM cars and trucks are our projects .... so the way I see it I have two real options to fix this... I can pull the motor and rebuild myself which hopefully is cheaper but I will have a heck of alot to learn about chrysler motors to do it. Or option 2... I only know of Mabbco having slant 6 reman long blocks for sale. But they are 1900 dollars for long block. I'm pretty sure I can rebuild it cheaper than that if I don't mess it up in the process . Or... Does anyone know of another company who does reman slant 6s.... some people already want me to switch to a v8 ... a buddy offered me a running stock 360 motor. But... something is cool in the fact this car is the ultimate underdog. Someday I want to build the slant 6 up a little bit for some more pep to it but.... In the meantime, I'll settle for a solid driver and get body and paint done. But I need to find another slant 6 now
 
I rebuilt mine stock for around $1100, including all new pistons, rings, bearings, timing chain, very mild cam and reground lifters and blueprinted oil pump from Doug Dutra; machine work included block cleaned and cooked and a long bath in the derusting tank, then rebored, and a full head workover (many valves replaced and new guides installed), with the head shaved a bit. I did the final assembly and advanced the cam timing with my own parts.

This motor is pretty simple to learn IMHO if you have done others.
 
nm9stheham said:
I rebuilt mine stock for around $1100, including all new pistons, rings, bearings, timing chain, very mild cam and reground lifters and blueprinted oil pump from Doug Dutra; machine work included block cleaned and cooked and a long bath in the derusting tank, then rebored, and a full head workover (many valves replaced and new guides installed), with the head shaved a bit. I did the final assembly and advanced the cam timing with my own parts.

This motor is pretty simple to learn IMHO if you have done others.
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That's a nice price... interesting
 
I have a slant in my 24,000 mile survivor car, maybe in that car I would rebuild it, but for your case I would go with the 360, that sounds like a better option to me. Just a stupid question in case I missed something, why not just take the head off and have it rebuilt?? Valve job and new pushrods and your back in business, that can't cost more then 3-400 bucks??

Jeff
 
x2 a valve job is cheap, you will need it anyways on a rebuild.
 
That's what I'm worried about is a piston slapped it. Or some other unknown damage... if I could get it going with a head rebuild I'd be happy.
 
Well, your gonna find out real quick once you take the head off, only way of knowing if there's other damage, I would guess your going to be fine, probably just bent some pushrods. That thing must have made a racket when you were cranking it over though. I wouldn't get too worried, these are tough as nails motors!!
 
rrrr-kalunk-rrrr-rrrr-kalunk-kachunk-rrrr-kaclunk-rrrr-rrrr-kalunk-kachunk-rrrr
That's the sound of valves hitting the pistons at cranking speed.
But it goes away after awhile, then
rrr-clack-rrr-rrr-clack-clack
lol
Ok, that's just mean,sorry.
 
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