What Paint Would YOU Do?
So would an acrylic enamel be recommended or another type of paint. I would prefer to spray in my shop but am willing to tow it to a buddies booth. TOP global pops up acrylic enamel through their color finder, but probably could mix anything I ask for......for a price.
Thanks Diymirage, 69 340 and Jim for your input...it is much appreciated.
hi...
it's hard to recommend to you which type of paint would be best for your project. here's a few guidelines i could offer:
1. "old school" acrylic enamels were the OEM paint for all chrysler products through about the late 1980's. GM used acrylic lacquer on their products through the late 1980's. the old paints are "one step" meaning you just shake up the paint, thin down with thinner, pour in the gun and spray. there are three temperatures of thinner depending on the temp of your spray booth. enamel can be sprayed over lacquer primer - but NO lacquer paint of any kind can be sprayed over enamel. you have to be "good with a gun" to avoid "runs" in the paint from too much application or a "sand finish" from not enough paint applied or too fast drying thinner. also the "old" paints will not look as shinny as anything used today. acrylic enamel does have some "clear coat" formulation in it but again, the old technology will not look as "custom" as the new paints. HOWEVER, if you are going "original restoration look" you may want to consider the old paint.
2. old one step paints are easier to use for the "back yard" car builder because you can spray them in a garage with just the floor hosed down with water and a floor fan on for air circulation. lacquer is the fastest drying paint so mistakes can be fixed within a couple of hours. acrylic enamel paint needs at least 24 hours to dry and harden before sanding and "starting over" to fix a mistake. but again, either of these paints can be used by a "beginning" painter. just make sure you wear a good respirator mask or your nose will stick together and you will be coughing up paint for a couple of days. wear long pants and a long sleeve shirt and a hat.
3. the "newer" paints beginning about 20 years ago were "hybrids" of the old one step paints. these "second generation" paints used additional additives like hardners or extra "poly gloss" added when you were mixing the paint. they used the older style "VOC" thinners in their preparation. when applied correctly, they produced a much deeper, shinny gloss finish much more "custom" looking than the old "one step" paints. these paints can also be sprayed "in your house garage" with the same wet floor prep and fans. however, you will need an experienced painter to help you "mix" these paints.
4. almost every state now in the U.S. requires "water based" auto paint to be used at body shops. i've only sprayed a few items with water based paint and never an entire car. they are VERY different from the "old" paints. generally, they are a 2 step process - a solid base coat of "color" and then a final "clear coat" applied to create the finished shinny and glossy finish. HOWEVER - it is EXTREMELY difficult to paint an entire car with the new paints if you do not have a professional paint booth. the water based paints MUST have CONSTANT air flow around the entire car for the paint to dry and harden. further, they are much more sensitive to cold temperatures - so the "warm temperature control" of a paint booth is required. if you are going to use the current water paints, you will HAVE to take your car to a shop with a paint booth and find someone who knows how to mix and spray these paints.
like i said, it's hard to suggest a paint to you. if you are restoring a muscle car from the 1964-1971 "muscle car era" and want a really "old school" looking muscle car that will actually "look" like the cars did then, use the old paints. if you want a "beautiful" or "show car" paint job which has a "deep gloss" look - use the new paints. all paints are very expensive these days so the kind of paint you use will probably not affect the price a lot.
