Found a 1957 Custom Royale Sedan. near show. what should i look out for?

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J

Justin Helmers

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I am wondering what to ask or look for when deciding whether or not to drive the 5 hours to look at and possibly purchase a very nice looking almost show quality 1957 Dodge Custom Royale sedan. Red and White. He is around the $10k mark. Is this too much?
 
The '57-'59 Chrysler Corp cars were beautiful pieces of shіt. The design was tops, but they were made of poor-quality materials, sloppily thrown together. It is exceptionally rare to find one that is actually rust-free, so don't let "nice looking" fool you; if you really think you might buy it, inspect it (or have it professionally inspected) to within an inch of its life.
 
It is a 4 door. I will bring a light magnet to check the body. Just wanting to know what to ask the seller before I drive. He has a few in that era that he takes to shows and it appears via his facebook pictures that he does pretty well (I know, take with a grain of salt.) I was actually looking at a local 57 Chevy 210 4 door before I saw this one, that is in great condition for a similar price... Don't know much about the dodge cars other than it looks really cool and would be fun to customize... This is the Dodge I'm looking at

1957 dodge.jpg
 
Justin Helmers said:
It is a 4 door. I will bring a light magnet to check the body. Just wanting to know what to ask the seller before I drive. He has a few in that era that he takes to shows and it appears via his facebook pictures that he does pretty well (I know, take with a grain of salt.) I was actually looking at a local 57 Chevy 210 4 door before I saw this one, that is in great condition for a similar price... Don't know much about the dodge cars other than it looks really cool and would be fun to customize... This is the Dodge I'm looking at

View attachment 1715076176
Click to expand...
Don't know what you plan to pay for the car but it sure looks nice!!!! Definitely a show stopper!! Do a thorough check on the body and engine. Get all the paperwork that comes with it.

Treblig
 
Treblig said:
Don't know what you plan to pay for the car but it sure looks nice!!!! Definitely a show stopper!! Do a thorough check on the body and engine. Get all the paperwork that comes with it.

Treblig
Click to expand...
I'm not sure if i could get it for $9k or not. I would be happy with that if it checks out ok.
 
9k seems like very good deal depending on what it actually looks like and how it runs. It looks like a beautiful car!!

treblig
 
They arent very rigid, causing windshield to leak. The 59 i had in the shop last fall was soaking wet under the mats, i called it a kiddie pool. For 9 or 10 grand i would want to get it on a hoist. Trunk extensions rot out so be thorough.
I like the styling of those cars,but as mentioned, not the best built car out there. Also, that '59-the body wasnt square on the frame, didnt notice until i was swapping out the rear end.

Very hard to find parts, rubber body components primarily.

Good luck, i hope it works in your favour.
 
The late 60s Barracudas that I have owned also leaked around the front and back glass. I solved that by having the glass man install the front and back glass using urethane. Yes, it's a hassle when you have to replace the glass but how often do you do that??? To me a car that doesn't leak is much more desirable than one that does??

treblig
 
I'll start a new thread if I need to or can someone answer this here? What is the bolt pattern on this? Also what size wheel and tires will fit stock?
 
The '59 regent i repowered with a drivetrain from a 75 dodge truck 400/727 and rear diff. Used the same wheels from the car. Small truck bolt pattern,4-1/2"
 
That is a Hardtop........ big difference as the sedans have an ugly roofline, there is no style. In fact, I'd rather have a 4 door hardtop than a 2 door sedan. The 2 door hardtops have the low sleek roofline and are of course the most desirable. The hardtops (2 and 4 door) were called Lancers and have the Lance emblem on the quarter panels. So your car is technically a Custom Royal Lancer.

Lots of info at Forwardlook.net

Category & forums listing - The Forward Look Network

The bolt pattern is 5x4 1/2", left hand thread on drivers side, and same size wheel studs as the 60's muscle cars. The rear end is an 8 3/4, but the hubs are a tapered fit to the axle, so you have to use a puller to get the drums off.

The Custom Royal is the top of the line model and should have the Torqueflite transmission, the other transmission available was the 2 speed Powerflite. To start the car with a Torqueflite, you press the neutral button, I always thought that was cool. The engine is a 325 Poly and can either be a 2 or 4 barrel

Common rust areas are floors, trunk, rockers, behind rear wheels, and the top leading edge of the fenders due to no splash guards.

A common problem with cars of that era are the front brakes pulling to one direction or grabbing. I've read that the reason is due to the shoes have to be adjusted just right and many people don't know how including myself. The fronts have dual wheel cylinders so each shoe has it's own wheel cylinder. As far as poor quality cars in 1957, that is a non-issue now that it's 60 years later. Especially if the car has had a full restoration.




If it's as good as it looks in the picture, I'd buy it for $10K. In fact, if you don't buy it will you give me the sellers contact info?
 
Last edited:
Okdart has covered it very well, hardtop vs sedan. Hardtop is a much more desireable body style as wel as being more rigid.
 
1956 Dodge Hardtop owner here. Just purchased the car this summer.

OkDart covered the subject really well and as he suggested I would go to the Forward Look forum for really detailed info on these cars. They are fanatics and have great info.

As a new owner working on this car for many months now, I have experienced that parts are not the easiest to come by and can be pricey. If it has a Powerflite transmission check it for leaks. Leaking is a common issue with these. If brakes are original you will want to update them. Other common rust spots are the roof over the windshield where there is a lip. If tires are original plys and you want to maintain the look of white walls you can get them in radials. The plys ride like crap and grab every groove in the road.

On the positive....they are awesomely fun cars. I have a viper and pretty cool 64 Plymouth but they both get overshadowed by the 56. People just gravitate to the car.

Good luck with the car.

image_zpsghnztz4q.jpg


20170610_1554341_zpsrls1y7go.jpg
 
55 owner here. These cars are a different animal than the 60s era unibodies. Yes, the drum brakes suck. I just did a 4 wheel disc brake conversion......

Have a good look at the frame, body mounts, any rubber part including engine and trans mounts and drive shaft boots. Check for frame cracks around the steering box mounts. 5 on 4.5 wheels, LH thread on the LH side. The wheels are held on (at least in 55...) by bolts like a VW, not studs and nuts. There may be a pilot finger that fits a hole in the factory wheel (again for sure on my 55) that needs to be removed if you plan to install aftermarket wheels.

Check the wiring....... likely there is the old cloth insulated wiring which gets old, brittle and breaks down.

If it has not been done consider putting in a more modern dual reservoir master cylinder and disc brakes. I used a rustyhope disc kit and a ford explorer rear end. I think you will find that park and the e brake are both handled by a drum brake on the trans output and it will have ball and trunnion u joints.... which in my experience are troublesome. Another good upgrade is to a conventional 727, driveshaft and differential with e brake.

Very nice lines on that year! PM me if you want more details.
 
OKDart said:
That is a Hardtop........ big difference as the sedans have an ugly roofline, there is no style. In fact, I'd rather have a 4 door hardtop than a 2 door sedan. The 2 door hardtops have the low sleek roofline and are of course the most desirable. The hardtops (2 and 4 door) were called Lancers and have the Lance emblem on the quarter panels. So your car is technically a Custom Royal Lancer.

Lots of info at Forwardlook.net

Category & forums listing - The Forward Look Network

The bolt pattern is 5x4 1/2", left hand thread on drivers side, and same size wheel studs as the 60's muscle cars. The rear end is an 8 3/4, but the hubs are a tapered fit to the axle, so you have to use a puller to get the drums off.

The Custom Royal is the top of the line model and should have the Torqueflite transmission, the other transmission available was the 2 speed Powerflite. To start the car with a Torqueflite, you press the neutral button, I always thought that was cool. The engine is a 325 Poly and can either be a 2 or 4 barrel

Common rust areas are floors, trunk, rockers, behind rear wheels, and the top leading edge of the fenders due to no splash guards.

A common problem with cars of that era are the front brakes pulling to one direction or grabbing. I've read that the reason is due to the shoes have to be adjusted just right and many people don't know how including myself. The fronts have dual wheel cylinders so each shoe has it's own wheel cylinder. As far as poor quality cars in 1957, that is a non-issue now that it's 60 years later. Especially if the car has had a full restoration.




If it's as good as it looks in the picture, I'd buy it for $10K. In fact, if you don't buy it will you give me the sellers contact info?
Click to expand...


Thanks for all your helpful information! He sent me 30 photos and I talked on the phone with him for a half hour. He's an honest guy. He takes it to shows all the time and just took it on a 4 hour one way trip.
Brakes don't pull. It has had the floors replaced and the rockers. He said they couldve done a nicer job on the rockers... but for 10k, you don't get much these days.
It does have the 2 bbl carb and the Powerflite tranny. I was surprised about the tranny not being a torqueflite... I need to research to see what it would take to convert it to a 4bbl intake.
I may keep the same wheels since the tires are brand new...but don't know if i can buy it and leave it alone.. I like to make things my own. Not sure what i would do.
 
Kmrumedy said:
1956 Dodge Hardtop owner here. Just purchased the car this summer.

OkDart covered the subject really well and as he suggested I would go to the Forward Look forum for really detailed info on these cars. They are fanatics and have great info.

As a new owner working on this car for many months now, I have experienced that parts are not the easiest to come by and can be pricey. If it has a Powerflite transmission check it for leaks. Leaking is a common issue with these. If brakes are original you will want to update them. Other common rust spots are the roof over the windshield where there is a lip. If tires are original plys and you want to maintain the look of white walls you can get them in radials. The plys ride like crap and grab every groove in the road.

On the positive....they are awesomely fun cars. I have a viper and pretty cool 64 Plymouth but they both get overshadowed by the 56. People just gravitate to the car.

Good luck with the car.

View attachment 1715076444

View attachment 1715076445
Click to expand...
Thank you.

Is the forward look forum on here or a completely different site? I'll check it out.
The windows do not leak nor does the trunk. There are no leaks under the car, engine or tranny. The tires are brand new, but i need to make sure he got radials. I would think he would've because he drives it a lot.
The looks of the car instantly grabbed my attention. I wouldve never searched for a 57 dodge... i just came across it.
thanks again.
 
d55dave said:
55 owner here. These cars are a different animal than the 60s era unibodies. Yes, the drum brakes suck. I just did a 4 wheel disc brake conversion......

Have a good look at the frame, body mounts, any rubber part including engine and trans mounts and drive shaft boots. Check for frame cracks around the steering box mounts. 5 on 4.5 wheels, LH thread on the LH side. The wheels are held on (at least in 55...) by bolts like a VW, not studs and nuts. There may be a pilot finger that fits a hole in the factory wheel (again for sure on my 55) that needs to be removed if you plan to install aftermarket wheels.

Check the wiring....... likely there is the old cloth insulated wiring which gets old, brittle and breaks down.

If it has not been done consider putting in a more modern dual reservoir master cylinder and disc brakes. I used a rustyhope disc kit and a ford explorer rear end. I think you will find that park and the e brake are both handled by a drum brake on the trans output and it will have ball and trunnion u joints.... which in my experience are troublesome. Another good upgrade is to a conventional 727, driveshaft and differential with e brake.

Very nice lines on that year! PM me if you want more details.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the great help! I'm really beginning to love this forum. You guys are awesome.
 
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