Yes, another question about MAD bypass ... how to connect

That is what I did in my 273 small-block. Look at a Magnum engine and you'll see that is what the Chrysler engineers did from ALT+ to BAT+, running right across the timing cover. Indeed, I used the cable from a Magnum V-8. I don't directly attach to BAT+, but rather to a new fuse/relay box beside the battery (can see in my avatar).

In a slant, running ALT+ to the starter relay is the easiest path. No, need to add another wire from there to BAT+ since there is already such a factory wire.

I lost you on the need to connect two 10 awg wires to the fusible link. A photo would help. We assume that is the cabin feed, via the bulkhead connector. What loads would you have in the cabin that require such massive current? If you did draw such current, it would melt the bulkhead terminal which is the problem the MAD Bypass is intended to fix. If you do need such cabin current, do the "fleet bypass", as the factory did for loads like a police spotlight.

I had a similar question. Assume alternator post-to-relay black wire is in place and ammeter is shunted and wires correctly spliced under the dash. At this point it seems to me that powering up the dash and interior doesn't require the draw needed to drill holes and run dedicated wiring (or does it?). Is there a reason why you couldn't use the original OEM bulkhead connector?

It seems that on the interior, the wires are in place. In the engine compartment, you connect a new black from the bulkhead, splice it with the existing "red" and fuselink to the relay like the MAD article suggests. No drilling needed. Is this reasonable, or are overheated wires running through the bulkhead still a possibility?