72 Dart Swinger 3.6L Pentastar +T5

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I sent them a msg asking if we could convert the harness or what they would recommend. If i hear back ill post it.
Cool,
related to that, do we know what the 3.6 uses as a trigger wheel for the crank and the type of cam sensor it uses as well. Are they the same as the Hemi? That is going to be one significant issue with MS. As long as it uses a wheel type that MS recognizes it should work, other wise we will need a developer to code the type of wheel the 3.6 uses
 
Cool,
related to that, do we know what the 3.6 uses as a trigger wheel for the crank and the type of cam sensor it uses as well. Are they the same as the Hemi? That is going to be one significant issue with MS. As long as it uses a wheel type that MS recognizes it should work, other wise we will need a developer to code the type of wheel the 3.6 uses
I would think it would be the same as the hemi, looking into it today. Ill post the list of questions they asked for to help build a system that will work. I wonder if its possible to control the cylinder drop to 4 banger more for the mpgs!? Ill have to find out!
 
I would think it would be the same as the hemi, looking into it today. Ill post the list of questions they asked for to help build a system that will work. I wonder if its possible to control the cylinder drop to 4 banger more for the mpgs!? Ill have to find out!

SWEET! yes please share their response
 
any clue on the cam sensor? I imagine it would be similar as well
Havent looked for cam info yet. But saw something about the oil pump that could be an issue. Its solenoid controlled to vary pressure based on rpm and temperature. So going factory wiring might be the ticket on the 2011 pentastar motors on up if a megasquirt can't accommodate it. Or wire it full blast lol.
 
So why do we need to vary the pressure? I understand the engineers did this to optimize the engine for every day driving but can it just be locked out somehow to an ideal pressure?
 
So it looks like the solenoid starts at low pressure under 3500rpm and varies the pressure within that range mechanically then above 3500 rpm it switches to high pressure and again adjusts pressure within the high range. I would think its for efficiency reason. I would think you could just have it set to stay in high pressure mode. Or have a controller to switch at 3500 which i don't think would be hard to do.
 
G'day friends
I'm still looking in often enough with my Pentastar engine swap on hold until I see some success reported by someone somewhere.

Our thread pilot myduster360 has been very quiet. Where are you brother ?

I have a simple but long question, and it'd be great if any of you could answer with a 'known' remedy. It is as follows …

If I transplant from my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee, it's Pentastar 3.6, the trans, the exhaust, the cooling system, the steering, the instrumentation, the fuel tank, etc etc and of course the complete wiring loom into my '37 Dodge … then how would I STOP something simple for example like the warning light from displaying on the dash advising that my rear hatch is not properly closed ?

Of course this is but one such issue that is likely to arise.

I hope someone actually knows. FINGERS ARE CROSSED in anticipation of a correct piece of info.
 
I think something like a rear hatch would just be a ground, but there will likely be other items that are more complex. That's sort of what we've been talking about. It seems the computer likes to see VIN coded components.
 
So why do we need to vary the pressure? I understand the engineers did this to optimize the engine for every day driving but can it just be locked out somehow to an ideal pressure?

I know nothing but … for what its worth, regarding "variable oil pressure", I bumped into this snippet of info on the Mikuni company web site in a totally unrelated search regarding something else. It may to some extent answer your question.

Automobiles | Products Information | MIKUNI corporation
Variable Valve Timing System (VVT&OCV)
Hydraulic actuator to control cam shaft phase for the engine. Solenoid valve to control oil pressure to be applied to VVT.
 
Honestly, getting the 3.6l to run on the factory PCM isn't any different than a Hemi. I just don't see the cost/benefit of using an MS over factory.

I'm trying to use the TIPM and integrate it into the whole car(dash, lights, power) which may be over complicating things. I've already sent a PCM to my colleagues at Diablo for "Gas Monkey Hellcat" special but that PCM wound up being junk once I got it plugged in(various sensor fault codes). So I got a manual trans PCM to replace it. I think between my HpTuners, Diablo and vin flashing, it should eventually work.

The biggest hurdle as of today is getting the engine IN THE CAR by either (see post #56)
A) Redesigning the entire front suspension(Rack & pinion + forward facing steering arms.)
or
B) Just ditching the factory AC compressor, fabbing an A/C delete idler and moving on. Ditching the A/C is more true to the whole lightweight build concept anyway.


Regardless I've shelved the hard choices and decided to weld in the subframe connectors, instead.

upload_2017-6-2_9-34-55.png
 
K
Honestly, getting the 3.6l to run on the factory PCM isn't any different than a Hemi. I just don't see the cost/benefit of using an MS over factory.

I'm trying to use the TIPM and integrate it into the whole car(dash, lights, power) which may be over complicating things. I've already sent a PCM to my colleagues at Diablo for "Gas Monkey Hellcat" special but that PCM wound up being junk once I got it plugged in(various sensor fault codes). So I got a manual trans PCM to replace it. I think between my HpTuners, Diablo and vin flashing, it should eventually work.

The biggest hurdle as of today is getting the engine IN THE CAR by either (see post #56)
A) Redesigning the entire front suspension(Rack & pinion + forward facing steering arms.)
or
B) Just ditching the factory AC compressor, fabbing an A/C delete idler and moving on. Ditching the A/C is more true to the whole lightweight build concept anyway.


Regardless I've shelved the hard choices and decided to weld in the subframe connectors, instead.

View attachment 1715053285
Good to hear your voice again MD360. Keep up the fine work.
 
Honestly, getting the 3.6l to run on the factory PCM isn't any different than a Hemi. I just don't see the cost/benefit of using an MS over factory.

I'm trying to use the TIPM and integrate it into the whole car(dash, lights, power) which may be over complicating things. I've already sent a PCM to my colleagues at Diablo for "Gas Monkey Hellcat" special but that PCM wound up being junk once I got it plugged in(various sensor fault codes). So I got a manual trans PCM to replace it. I think between my HpTuners, Diablo and vin flashing, it should eventually work.

The biggest hurdle as of today is getting the engine IN THE CAR by either (see post #56)
A) Redesigning the entire front suspension(Rack & pinion + forward facing steering arms.)
or
B) Just ditching the factory AC compressor, fabbing an A/C delete idler and moving on. Ditching the A/C is more true to the whole lightweight build concept anyway.


Regardless I've shelved the hard choices and decided to weld in the subframe connectors, instead.

View attachment 1715053285

Hello MyDuster360
How is it progressing on the electronics side ?
You've been a bit quiet.
Rgds
Jim
 
Hello MyDuster360
How is it progressing on the electronics side ?
You've been a bit quiet.
Rgds
Jim
I sent my 2015 Wrangler PCM to AJ at hemituner and he re-worked it and installed what he called a start box. Should be plug and play.
 
Awesome idea!! I've thought about this type of a swap after reading about SRT 4 swaps. Thank you for posting all the tech and parts/part # used. I think it's going to be an amazing ride when finished!
 
I think I might have finally found a lead on getting the PCM, WCM(security key module) & TIPM to get the engine to crank and fire.
I'll update tomorrow with the details if it all works out.

I found this slick little program AlfaOBD and it seems to be 10x more powerful/versatile than it lets on. It's been verified to work on other models(dart/200) to add Sales Codes to the TIPM for adding Remote Start, Radio, fog lights, Navigation, heated seat/wheel, Disable Tire Pressure sensors ect. So if it can ADD features, it should be able to Remove them as well. It can also perform a PROXI Configuration Alignment which should resolve the B2204 code I'm getting keeping the TIPM from powering the starter relay

Regardless, it should be useful outside this project. I'll update soon


AlfaOBD
 
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I think I might be finally found a lead on getting the PCM, WCM(security key module) & TIPM to get the engine to crank and fire.
I'll update tomorrow with the details if it all works out.

I found this slick little program AlfaOBD and it seems to be 10x more powerful/versatile than it lets on. It's been verified to work on other models(dart/200) to add Sales Codes to the TIPM for adding Remote Start, Radio, fog lights, Navigation, heated seat/wheel, Disable Tire Pressure sensors ect. So if it can ADD features, it should be able to Remove them as well. It can also perform a PROXI Configuration Alignment which should resolve the B2204 code I'm getting keeping the TIPM from powering the starter relay

Regardless, it should be useful outside this project. I'll update soon


AlfaOBD
Thanks MD360,
You've provided seriously good info here. Much appreciated. Things are starting to look promising.
Good luck. I'll continue to stay tuned.
JS
 
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