eo1phb
Member
I would like to switch my Power to Manual steering and would like get info on parts to pick up and ask if there is anyone that has done this. THANKS!!!
Switching to Manual Steering
- Thread starter eo1phb
- Start date
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Nothing to it. Need a manual steering box, and a pitman for your style of car. Usually it's '72 and down, and '73 and up for pitman arms on A bodies.
You can buy this adaptor MOPAR Steering Column ADAPTER PS to Manual A-Body Plymouth Dodge Duster Demon GT | eBay
Or you can lock a grip pliers on your lower column and pound it down till it fits. I've done it both ways. If you don't mind the money, the adaptor is easier.
you will loose 40 lbs, a belt, and enjoy the extra room around header/exhaust manifold and around the front of the motor!
You can buy this adaptor MOPAR Steering Column ADAPTER PS to Manual A-Body Plymouth Dodge Duster Demon GT | eBay
Or you can lock a grip pliers on your lower column and pound it down till it fits. I've done it both ways. If you don't mind the money, the adaptor is easier.
you will loose 40 lbs, a belt, and enjoy the extra room around header/exhaust manifold and around the front of the motor!
ESP47
Well-Known Member
I believe you'll need a manual steering box, pitman arm for a manual car and a steering column adapter like this
Mopar Performance P4510637: Manual Steering Adapter Fits: A/B/E-Body | JEGS
They might be had for cheaper but that's the first one that came up on google.
You can avoid getting the adapter by replacing the column with a manual column. I believe the steering shaft is longer in a manual column.
It's been years since I've done this so please chime in if I'm not correct here.
Mopar Performance P4510637: Manual Steering Adapter Fits: A/B/E-Body | JEGS
They might be had for cheaper but that's the first one that came up on google.
You can avoid getting the adapter by replacing the column with a manual column. I believe the steering shaft is longer in a manual column.
It's been years since I've done this so please chime in if I'm not correct here.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
I think Firm Feel made the first adapter.
Nice part, works well.
Dam, Mopar Performance is proud of that part.
Nice part, works well.
Dam, Mopar Performance is proud of that part.
eo1phb
Member
THANKS!!! I will look into the parts!!
I replaced mine when the engine was out. It was after the engine was in that I realized that I didn't tighten the bolts all the way. I don't know how anyone else does it but I couldn't get any type of wrench in there to tighten them. It was only after the engine was out again that I could get them tight.
question 72 A body pitman arm so power steering and manual are the same or different?
dano
Evil Handy Man
I have a box, pitman arm and bolts. I live in Gresham if you want something local. I have a manual, floor shift column too out of my 69 GTS.
My 72 manual is kinda loosey I am from sacramento area .
How did your swap go, @eo1phb ?
Well, three total posts...probably not going to hear back..
So I finally have full bill of materials for my swap over to manual steering.
16:1 "quick" ratio box, adapter from Mancini Racing, Moog pitman arm (as recommended by Mancini)...do I need anything else? Will the hardware from the stock box swap right over?
I gather that I'll need to pull the driver's side header and unbolt the steering column from inside the passenger compartment...anything tricky to watch out for? I'm hesitant to disable my car and get stuck while we still have nice weather up here in the Northeast but this sounds like a straightforward job!
I found the PDF of the service manual...hoping that will tell me what I need to learn.
Any advice or experience would be very welcome!
Well, three total posts...probably not going to hear back..
So I finally have full bill of materials for my swap over to manual steering.
16:1 "quick" ratio box, adapter from Mancini Racing, Moog pitman arm (as recommended by Mancini)...do I need anything else? Will the hardware from the stock box swap right over?
I gather that I'll need to pull the driver's side header and unbolt the steering column from inside the passenger compartment...anything tricky to watch out for? I'm hesitant to disable my car and get stuck while we still have nice weather up here in the Northeast but this sounds like a straightforward job!
I found the PDF of the service manual...hoping that will tell me what I need to learn.
Any advice or experience would be very welcome!
Just general info from my experience...
3 bolts attach the steering gear to the K member. A split pin attaches the box coupling to the steering gear. That's all the hardware there is and it does transfer. Center the wheels straight ahead and drive the split pin out ( its now vertical on the engine side of the box ). The little V notch filed in the lower edge of the box coupling identifies the master spline location and should be right there on the top. This box coupling can be a biotch to get off the gearbox shaft. A pickle fork can work. Of course you'll need to first unbolt the steering column ( 3 points under dash and 3 more at firewall ) so it can move away from, off the shaft. A pile of books or something in the seat under the steering wheel will help maintain alignment, reduces binding ( the split pin groove breaks the splines into 2 sections, ads to the fun ). You don't want to screw up the top of that box coupling unless you need to rebuild the coupling. That's a judgement call. Maybe check for lost motion in it early, when centering/preparing to drive that pin out. Even when rebuilding you should plan to reuse that top. Distort it only enough to get it off. Enough about that thing for now. We can come back to it if we must.
Center the next steering gear the same, pitman position and all.
Those 3 bolts in the K have a history of working loose, eventually detrimental to the nuts welded inside the K. You might find special bolt heads there too ( varies w/ year model ). If my memory serves, a 12 point 7/16 socket fits those.
Clean flat mating surfaces, 3 bolts evenly torqued a must whether lock tite is applied or not.
Column mounting under the dash is slotted so when bolting the column back, try to get back in about center of that up/down travel. The firewall plate will likely have hardware scars to show where it was before.
3 bolts attach the steering gear to the K member. A split pin attaches the box coupling to the steering gear. That's all the hardware there is and it does transfer. Center the wheels straight ahead and drive the split pin out ( its now vertical on the engine side of the box ). The little V notch filed in the lower edge of the box coupling identifies the master spline location and should be right there on the top. This box coupling can be a biotch to get off the gearbox shaft. A pickle fork can work. Of course you'll need to first unbolt the steering column ( 3 points under dash and 3 more at firewall ) so it can move away from, off the shaft. A pile of books or something in the seat under the steering wheel will help maintain alignment, reduces binding ( the split pin groove breaks the splines into 2 sections, ads to the fun ). You don't want to screw up the top of that box coupling unless you need to rebuild the coupling. That's a judgement call. Maybe check for lost motion in it early, when centering/preparing to drive that pin out. Even when rebuilding you should plan to reuse that top. Distort it only enough to get it off. Enough about that thing for now. We can come back to it if we must.
Center the next steering gear the same, pitman position and all.
Those 3 bolts in the K have a history of working loose, eventually detrimental to the nuts welded inside the K. You might find special bolt heads there too ( varies w/ year model ). If my memory serves, a 12 point 7/16 socket fits those.
Clean flat mating surfaces, 3 bolts evenly torqued a must whether lock tite is applied or not.
Column mounting under the dash is slotted so when bolting the column back, try to get back in about center of that up/down travel. The firewall plate will likely have hardware scars to show where it was before.
A huge thanks to you, Redfish... extremely helpful stuff.
That kind of detail is the sort of thing that can save a guy from making a mess out of a job like this. I'm printing out this post to keep with me in the garage.
That kind of detail is the sort of thing that can save a guy from making a mess out of a job like this. I'm printing out this post to keep with me in the garage.
another lil somethin... The column bracket has 2 studs behind that little plastic door. One stud should have a short ground jumper wire and a second nut on it. The 3rd is farther down on right side and is most likely a bolt going into a caged or captured nut. DO NOT cross thread that bolt when going back together. I did that once with my air ratchet. Cost me a hour too. Had to cut the bolt out with a die grinder, find replacement hardware, get a end wrench on a hex nut up under there. Just a bad day.
I wont ever take the air ratchet under the dash again.
Phillips head screw driver, 3/8 hand ratchet, 7/16" deep socket on a 6" extension, 1/2" socket on a 12" extension plus that 6 inch extension to reach the firewall, Should be all you need inside. Good luck with it.
I wont ever take the air ratchet under the dash again.
Phillips head screw driver, 3/8 hand ratchet, 7/16" deep socket on a 6" extension, 1/2" socket on a 12" extension plus that 6 inch extension to reach the firewall, Should be all you need inside. Good luck with it.
Pitting may not hurt anything but I do agree it doesn't look like a 125 dollar part.
So @RedFish , your instructions were spot-on...the box is fully un-bolted! Thanks again!
I'm now attempting to extricate the power steering box from the car. As noted in a concurrent thread, the Pitman arm doesn't come off of the box easily...not interested in hitting it with a torch while I'm on the creeper under the car...so it's currently a brain teaser to get it out.
Removing the the long tube (Doug's) header will probably necessitate unbolting and lifting the engine...and if possible I'd rather not do that either!
How much disassembly at a minimum does it actually take to get the box out?
Again, any tips are welcome here!
I'm now attempting to extricate the power steering box from the car. As noted in a concurrent thread, the Pitman arm doesn't come off of the box easily...not interested in hitting it with a torch while I'm on the creeper under the car...so it's currently a brain teaser to get it out.
Removing the the long tube (Doug's) header will probably necessitate unbolting and lifting the engine...and if possible I'd rather not do that either!
How much disassembly at a minimum does it actually take to get the box out?
Again, any tips are welcome here!
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
@MRGTX The Pitman arm is splined to the steering gear.
Head down to the local parts house and rent a pitman arm puller. (They charge a deposit, but refund when you bring It back)
It will have two hooks and a bolt in the middle. The hooks go around the top of the arm. The bolt will rest on the steering gear bolt. Then tighten the bolt on the tool and the hooks will draw that sucker off. Make sure the big nut is already off the Putnam arm.
Hopefully you can snake the box out without having to pull the headers. Not sure on that.
Thanks again, guys...
So I ran out of time yesterday. @plumkrazee70 I think you're on to something with the puller. I probably should have done that to begin with!
So I have the car sitting in the garage in a state that makes me sick to my stomach as I settle down to work this morning. As I feared, I am leaving a perfectly drivable car in a completely disabled state thanks to an optional modification that didn't go as planned.
The driver's side header is unbolted from the head and hanging, I pulled the starter...still no luck. It's not the pitman arm but the girth of the box itself that just can't quite fit past the head. This is a Magnum engine...not sure if the clearance is any worse than on an LA...but for whatever reason, I'm having more trouble than most folks seem to.
So...I will be unbolting the engine mounts and jacking up the motor when I get home. This of course also requires unbolting the passenger side header to access the motor mounts.
I am not a good mechanic but mostly on a account of a shallow tool box (building that up as I go), difficult working space, working full time and taking grad school classes...along with an internship starting this week...excuses, I know. The one lesson I keep failing to learn is that any time I think I can do a job with "minimal disassembly" or by taking any kind of a short cut, I make things 100x harder for myself and I end up taking everything apart anyway.
So I ran out of time yesterday. @plumkrazee70 I think you're on to something with the puller. I probably should have done that to begin with!
So I have the car sitting in the garage in a state that makes me sick to my stomach as I settle down to work this morning. As I feared, I am leaving a perfectly drivable car in a completely disabled state thanks to an optional modification that didn't go as planned.
The driver's side header is unbolted from the head and hanging, I pulled the starter...still no luck. It's not the pitman arm but the girth of the box itself that just can't quite fit past the head. This is a Magnum engine...not sure if the clearance is any worse than on an LA...but for whatever reason, I'm having more trouble than most folks seem to.
So...I will be unbolting the engine mounts and jacking up the motor when I get home. This of course also requires unbolting the passenger side header to access the motor mounts.
I am not a good mechanic but mostly on a account of a shallow tool box (building that up as I go), difficult working space, working full time and taking grad school classes...along with an internship starting this week...excuses, I know. The one lesson I keep failing to learn is that any time I think I can do a job with "minimal disassembly" or by taking any kind of a short cut, I make things 100x harder for myself and I end up taking everything apart anyway.
I cant say about headers. For my stock example, I drop the Y pipe from manifolds. I might have unbolted the big OEM starter for more wiggle room too. I really don't remember. I do remember the manual steering gear came out easier than the power steering gear went in its place.
Past the head? As in coming out the top? Try drop it out underneath.
adriver
Blazing Apostle
Manual Steering Box...assistance needed...
No. Just use the nut to push it on.
It's a tight fit.
Wedge a block of wood between the arm and something.
Got a big box end wrench?
Or a socket with a breaker bar?
It may be optional but it's worth it.
Don't beat yourself up.
Laying on your back and doing this for the first time is challenging even for someone with more experience.
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This is worth a shot...I had assumed that taking apart the rest of the steering linkage and removing the torsion bar (two more things I wanted to avoid) would be the only way to make that happen but I'll take another look before I lift the engine. Again, thanks!
Cool...I suspected the nut might be enough to push the arm on but thought I'd ask!
As for the supportive words...much appreciated.
As simple as these old A-Bodies are, they can also spoil you by just not breaking. I put 40,000 miles on this car before it needed anything other than oil changes. A bit more trouble from this car in my teens and twenties probably would have made me a more capable wrencher in the subsequent decades.
Check that it is the correct arm/shaft combination. There are 2 different sizes. I can't say exactly when or where the change occurred. I know for sure the power steering gears are of 2 sizes. The manual gear is the one I'm not sure of. All the smaller or some of both out there?
Then you're not attempting to move a arm from one box to another are you? Anyway...
Best way to tell is the hex nut size. If one is 1&1/8 hex and the other is 1&5/16 hex, the 2 tapers are different sizes. I think the wrong smaller arm might go part ways onto the larger taper shaft but it wont work, wont go all the way on.
Then you're not attempting to move a arm from one box to another are you? Anyway...
Best way to tell is the hex nut size. If one is 1&1/8 hex and the other is 1&5/16 hex, the 2 tapers are different sizes. I think the wrong smaller arm might go part ways onto the larger taper shaft but it wont work, wont go all the way on.
adriver
Blazing Apostle
Be sure and center the turning of the box before putting the arm on. (duh)
It has four master splines as I recall.
It has four master splines as I recall.
Good call here...and yes, the power steering box that is coming off has a 1 5/16" nut and the manual box has a smaller nut...though I thought it was 1 1/4"? In any case, the new arm that is going on the new box appears to be the right one. Mancini Racing sourced it for me based on the application and it seems to fit...yes, there are four master splines.
Thanks again!
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