Does not matter which field connection goes to which wire, electrically
You must be specific. If you mean alternator is reading same as battery WHEN RUNNING, and also that the voltage is quite lower than 14 when IDLING FAST, then it is not charging
Single ballast is fine IF you are sure you have a later model ECU, whichs is known as "4 terminal" whether ECU has 5 physical terminals or not. Engine will not run if you have an older 5 terminal ECU with a 2terminal ballast
Bulkhead connector can be a HUGE problem. Please read the MAD article if you have not...........
Catalog
The VR power is fed off same wire as ignition "run" so if that was dead it would not run.
The parts store test does not mean much of anything. You need to learn to test this on the car. Follow steps I gave you above The "quick" steps for a completely non charging alternator is..........Remove the green field wire and jumper that alternator terminal to ground. Turn the key to "run". Verify you have battery voltage at the blue field wire WHILE STILL connected. You should be able to disconnect / reconnect your jumper wire and see a small spark in subdued lighting.
Now start the car, slowly bring up RPM and watch voltmeter hooked to battery. Battery voltage should start to rise with RPM, if the alternator is healthy and the battery is not very dead, it should come up above 13.5. Don't allow it to rise much above 16 --17V
