What caused this

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SgtLee511

SgtLee511

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340 less than 600 miles on comp cams version of 484 purple shaft lifter wear and I assume trashed cam. From left to right worse to good
20170812_141757.jpg
 
Not enough info. Was the camshaft broke in properly? Did you add some break in additive? To much spring pressure? What you see isn't that uncommon to occur.
 
Well to be honest cam was broke in currectly but I had a M P purple shaft 484 in it and changed to the comp version without changing changing the springs
 
What procedure did you use to break it in, if you don't mind me asking. Single valve springs or dual?
 
Did you use a good assemble lube on the cam journals and lifter bottoms? At this point your going to have to worry about metal all through the engine. I would at least cut the oil filter open and see how much metal is in there.
 
Ran it up to about 2500 rpm for about 20 min changed oil after a couple days of running motor I guess I can't say followed a correct procedure lol my bad probably don't want to have it h
SGBARRACUDA said:
Did you use a good assemble lube on the cam journals and lifter bottoms? At this point your going to have to worry about metal all through the engine. I would at least cut the oil filter open and see how much metal is in there.
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Yea a bit concerned hate to pull it in restoring a 69 bird cuts deep into pocket. It was currectly lubed upon install this engine low mileage but built 30 years ago and parked. The block and heads might have had 1000 miles on them recently changed cam
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Did you use a good assemble lube on the cam journals and lifter bottoms? At this point your going to have to worry about metal all through the engine. I would at least cut the oil filter open and see how much metal is in there.
Click to expand...
Single valve springs
 
This seems to happen more days than it did many years ago. Don't know if it is the cheaper quality metals used to manufacture cams, the oil now days, or it may be that since the advent of the internet, we just hear about it more often.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
This seems to happen more days than it did many years ago. Don't know if it is the cheaper quality metals used to manufacture cams, the oil now days, or it may be that since the advent of the internet, we just hear about it more often.
Click to expand...
Well I just got back into the mopar world after 30 years away but can't afford to many mistakes this car was my first at 16 Im 51 still have her proud to say.
 
SgtLee511 said:
Well I just got back into the mopar world after 30 years away but can't afford to many mistakes this car was my first at 16 Im 51 still have her proud to say.
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SGBARRACUDA said:
This seems to happen more days than it did many years ago. Don't know if it is the cheaper quality metals used to manufacture cams, the oil now days, or it may be that since the advent of the internet, we just hear about it more often.
Click to expand...
SGBARRACUDA said:
This seems to happen more days than it did many years ago. Don't know if it is the cheaper quality metals used to manufacture cams, the oil now days, or it may be that since the advent of the internet, we just hear about it more often.
Click to expand...
Yea was a different world good. And bad thanks for the response
 
I have been fortunate and I haven't lost a cam in my life. Thou from turning wrenches the larger part of 45 years, I have replaced many for others. What car do you have this 340 in?
 
72 340 duster original car I bought in 81 70,000 miles. I just checked filter no metal double checked with magnet I only drove about 6 miles home once I heard the lifter rattle
 
You are lucky indeed. Just look for metal when you take the old cam out in the timing cover or under the intake.
 
SgtLee511 said:
Thanks I'm sure it's in the pan oddly I didn't find any under intake or cover gonna drop pan flush what I can flush
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Make sure to get as much metal out of the oil passages as you can...

Sorry to see this happened to you...

I use both motor honey and cam lube on the cam when I build a fresh motor JIC....
 
krazykuda said:
Make sure to get as much metal out of the oil passages as you can...

Sorry to see this happened to you...

I use both motor honey and cam lube on the cam when I build a fresh motor JIC....
Click to expand...
Will do thinkn I'll spin up oil pump any suggestions on flushing with maybe a solvent?0
 
SgtLee511 said:
Will do thinkn I'll spin up oil pump any suggestions on flushing with maybe a solvent?0
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get in and flush out as much as you can with solvent would be good...

Then after you run it next, change the oil to get any other particles out that may have been too deep in the passages for you to flush out manually...
 
krazykuda said:
get in and flush out as much as you can with solvent would be good...

Then after you run it next, change the oil to get any other particles out that may have been too deep in the passages for you to flush out manually...
Click to expand...
Thanks
 
SgtLee511 said:
Thanks
Click to expand...

an old trick we used to do with a sludged up motor was to put a quart of trans fluid in the oil and run it for a day or two, then change the oil...

Trans fluid is like high detergent oil and will help clean it out...
 
It looks like the middle lifter never rotated at all.

Good that the filter is clean so far. Any metal sucked up will go into and through the oil pump and nick the pump gears. So I personally would not do that. Trying to flush with the pump is a bad idea IMHO; some of the tiniest particles may get through the filter and go who knows where. And solvent will just make it more prone to push stuff through.

If you are trying to avoid a full teardown..... most of the crap from the cam would drop on the crank, rods, and down into the pan. Multiple flushes from the top down through the valley, and repeated wipes of the rotating assembly would be be the best IMHO. But I doubt it will get it all, and you just hope that the rest gradually works its way down into the pan.
 
nm9stheham said:
It looks like the middle lifter never rotated at all.

Good that the filter is clean so far. Any metal sucked up will go into and through the oil pump and nick the pump gears. So I personally would not do that. Trying to flush with the pump is a bad idea IMHO; some of the tiniest particles may get through the filter and go who knows where. And solvent will just make it more prone to push stuff through.

If you are trying to avoid a full teardown..... most of the crap from the cam would drop on the crank, rods, and down into the pan. Multiple flushes from the top down through the valley, and repeated wipes of the rotating assembly would be be the best IMHO. But I doubt it will get it all, and you just hope that the rest gradually works its way down into the pan.
Click to expand...
Thanks will do
 
What kind of oil are you using?
Sinthetic or conventional?
 
SgtLee511 said:
72 340 duster original car I bought in 81 70,000 miles. I just checked filter no metal double checked with magnet I only drove about 6 miles home once I heard the lifter rattle
Click to expand...
I 4ok
SGBARRACUDA said:
You are lucky indeed. Just look for metal when you take the old cam out in the timing cover or under the intake.
Click to expand...

SGBARRACUDA said:
I have been fortunate and I haven't lost a cam in my life. Thou from turning wrenches the larger part of 45 years, I have replaced many for others. What car do you have this 340 in?
Click to expand...
Here is a pic of my baby
Mike 340 said:
What kind of oil are you using?
Sinthetic or conventional?
Click to expand...
Conventional
 
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