Questions on recent alignment
The car pulls the same amount weather I'm on the freeway or the street. I too would like it to be totall straight on freeway and deal with crowned road. My main concern with my first post is do I really only have 1.3 caster total, and it seems everyone agrees it's totally possible with normal bushings.
I wasn't really worried about toe or camber. Even the slight wandering/unstabillity and returning to center from a turn is so minimal I probably shouldn't have really mentioned it, I'm just picking hairs really as far as that goes.
What doesn't make sense is most seem to agree I have way too much offset in caster, but yet it still pulls.. toe is even, camber is even. Yet it still wants to go right. And like I mentioned before the steering wheel doesn't turn right, it just veers right. I don't see what else would cause it to do this, if I remember right the rear wheels has equal toe in and fairly everything else between the 2 sides.
I used a very similar homemade tool to pull the bushings out when I did them. I just honestly hate thinking of pulling the arms back off again, also Id be totally fine with the way It drives and feels now if it just went straight.
Can you post the actual alignment break down by left and right? If it's pulling right with a .6* cross camber I don't think it's road crown causing the issue. Especially not in the OC.
The lack of caster and toe will exacerbate the pull. The car will tend to wander with that little toe-in and positive caster, so, it wouldn't take much to make it pull one way or the other. With a whole bunch of caster and a little more toe the car would want to go straight more, so it would tend to resist small differences more.
I also just noticed on rock auto they have eccentric bolts and washers and some say plus or minus 2.25 degrees. Is this just a stock replacement or do they add more adjustment then factory eccentric? If it's a stock replacement why do I have a full degree less available to play with.
I
think those are just stock replacements. The eccentric has to be the same size, so does the bolt. The slot in the UCA mount is the same length. Maybe the bolt is further out in the eccentric, but that adjustment would still be limited by the length of the slot in the mount. Maybe I'm missing something, wouldn't be the first time.
As for why you can't get +2.25 if that is the case- you're assuming your car has the "middle" of the adjustment at zero. Ride height makes a
big difference on these cars. Like, several degrees of difference. It could be that you could get -3* of caster with your car, so, you can only get back to +1.3. And of course you change the camber when you're adjusting those bolts, so, you might not be able to use the max caster adjustment because of the camber setting too.
Remember these cars were originally designed to run as much as -1* of caster with manual steering, and positive camber up to +.75*. Just crazy bias ply numbers. So at factory ride height with factory parts running negative camber and positive caster isn't always easy. Hence the offset bushings. And even with offset bushings most people can only get to into the +3* caster range. The offset bushings add a couple of degrees, so you're not far from what I would expect with stock parts.
