^^THIS^^ The only time distributor position matters in relation to "the books" is.....
If TDC is indeed correct
If the cam is in time
If the intermediate gear is in "by the book"
If the drive tang on the distributor is same as OEM and IT MIGHT NOT be
Otherwise
Get and use a positive stop. I've had this one since I made it in the 1970's......
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If you buy one..........
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Make sure you incorporate a lock nut to immobilize the plunger, otherwise 'it wobbles.'
Remove battery ground, remove no1 plug, look in or probe and wrench the engine so the piston is "down a ways." Screw the stop into no1......... The dimension of my old one works well
Wrench the engine around until the piston stops on the device. Make a temporary mark onto the damper under TDC
Rotate engine opposite direction until the piston AGAIN stops on the device. Make a second mark on the dampener under TDC.
You now have two marks and if the old one is correct, it will be halfway between those two marks.
THE DISTRIBUTOR. It does not really matter how the gear/ distributor is installed you can CLOSE YOUR EYES and throw them both in!!!!!
Bring the engine up no1 ready to fire (compression.) ........by doing this:
Put your finger in no1, bump the engine until you feel compression. Look for the marks "coming up" as you wrench the engine, BUT DO NOT put the marks on TDC. Put them instead WHERE YOU WANT timing to be IE 12BTC, 15BTC, etc.
Now look at the distributor. Rotate the body CW (retard) and slowly advance (CCW) until the breaker points open (use a light or meter) or until the reluctor is lined up with the pickup coil.
WHEREVER THE ROTOR POINTS is where you plug in the no1 wire. If the gear is wrong or the drive tang different then no1 WILL NOT MATCH "by the book"
Set the timing with a light and YOU ARE DONE
