lifter galley crossover tube
Yellow Rose, would you detail for us how to alter the block and or crank to resolve this? Thank you for your time. Excellent material & I woulda never guessed it was needed! I may not turn that high but I wanna be prepared for if I do in the future builds. & the jist of it is you want the crank fed from the block 12 o'clock vertical hole when the rod journal is 70 deg past TDC?
The guy who originally developed it is who I bought it from. He way was simple. And it was hid in the pan. No one knew it was there. The problem with his system was some of the oil going to the bearings wasn't filtered. All the oil eventually went through the filter, but the crank was getting unfiltered oil. I'll describe how it was original done.
The first thing is you need a pan that is big enough to fit all the stuff in, or you have to make it external.
The machine work is pretty simple.
First, tap all the main bearing feed holes at the main bearing. I use a set screw. You want to stop all the oil coming in from factory oil gallery. Also, at the number 1 main bearing, block the oil going to the drivers side lifter gallery. You can't turn that kind of RPM on hydraulics so you don't need oil there.
On main caps 1-4, mill or file a flat spot on the main cap. Find the exact center and drill and tap the main cap for 1/8 pipe.
You have to make a distribution block to feed the mains. They made a simple block out of round tubing about 1 inch in diameter. Drill and tap 4 1/8th pipe holes in the 1inch tubing. This is where it gets difficult for some.
You have to drill and tap a hole in the main cap where the oil goes from the pump through the cap to the filter. It's 3/8ths pipe. Screw a 90 degree 3/8 X 3/8 male/male into the main cap so it is perpendicular to the cap mating surface. Screw on the distribution block.
There are only two steps left.
You make up number 4 lines that run from each hole in the distribution block and to each main cap except number 5 main. If you have a windage tray, you'll need to make some holes for the lines to fit though. With the right pan, it all fits easily in there, and nobody will know it.
The last step is to cross drill the crank. What that does is actually change the oil timing so that when the crank is ~70 degrees past TDC, you will get full pressure, full flow oil to the rods, right when it needs to be there. I still used full groove bearings.
The rods will now oil well past 10k. I regularly turned the first iteration 9200 but valve spring a valve train life was next to zero. So I cut it back some.
It's that simple.
Maybe later I'll explain how I moved the distribution out of the pan so all the oil was filtered all the time. It's really simple. I also plugged the bypass in the pump and made the bypass external. I could change oil pressure from a low of about 50 to a high of about 150.
I also made the pick up so it was a dual line pick up.
