67 barracuda notchback restoration
So i am going to jump around a bit. Putting these next photos out of chronological order. I planned on welding up the underside as well as making my own torque boxing plates front and rear out of 1/8" plate. A fabo member sent me cardstock templates to copy the US car tool ones. Theirs are a work of art, however i wanted a set without slots for a parking brake cable since i solved that issue, and i am more of a DIY kind of person, and a little bucks down at the time. I prefer to fabricate my own parts if i can.
I also needed to make a rotisserie. I used some scrap square tubing, and trampoline tubing from a trampoline we had for about 4 months. Then it went airborne like a flying saucer in a rain storm. First it slammed into my shop messing up the door and wall sheetmetal, then slammed into the house, before achieving liftoff and skidding across my roof, hitting my fence in my side yard and finally flopping over the fence and smashing in my next door neighbors window. Well i got my insurance to hook up my neighbor, i got everything else fixed and had a stack of bent steel tubing behind the shop so i made a "rocking rotisserie".
As a funny side note 3 months after the "saucer crash landing" in my neighbors window my wife says. The kids loved this thing lets get another. I looked at her and i think i remember saying, "What are you anyways, a ******* nut ?!?" , "what the hell is wrong with you !!" And "NO MORE TRAMPOLINES!!!"
Without any further introduction i give you the rocking rotisserie, and the underside of the Cuda ready for some welding, scraping and eventually its first coat of grey primer. 2 of the torque boxes are welded in as you can see 2 of them are just taped and clamped in place.
The subframe connectors are parallel even with the rocker panels. Some angle em in to connect lined up with the front rails. I preferred to make them straight. Inboard side of the connector lines up with the outboard side of the framerail. This still makes them plenty stiff for structural continuity. You can also see the seam sealer covering the non stock seam at the back end of the dart floor pan.
So i am going to jump around a bit. Putting these next photos out of chronological order. I planned on welding up the underside as well as making my own torque boxing plates front and rear out of 1/8" plate. A fabo member sent me cardstock templates to copy the US car tool ones. Theirs are a work of art, however i wanted a set without slots for a parking brake cable since i solved that issue, and i am more of a DIY kind of person, and a little bucks down at the time. I prefer to fabricate my own parts if i can.
I also needed to make a rotisserie. I used some scrap square tubing, and trampoline tubing from a trampoline we had for about 4 months. Then it went airborne like a flying saucer in a rain storm. First it slammed into my shop messing up the door and wall sheetmetal, then slammed into the house, before achieving liftoff and skidding across my roof, hitting my fence in my side yard and finally flopping over the fence and smashing in my next door neighbors window. Well i got my insurance to hook up my neighbor, i got everything else fixed and had a stack of bent steel tubing behind the shop so i made a "rocking rotisserie".
As a funny side note 3 months after the "saucer crash landing" in my neighbors window my wife says. The kids loved this thing lets get another. I looked at her and i think i remember saying, "What are you anyways, a ******* nut ?!?" , "what the hell is wrong with you !!" And "NO MORE TRAMPOLINES!!!"
Without any further introduction i give you the rocking rotisserie, and the underside of the Cuda ready for some welding, scraping and eventually its first coat of grey primer. 2 of the torque boxes are welded in as you can see 2 of them are just taped and clamped in place.
The subframe connectors are parallel even with the rocker panels. Some angle em in to connect lined up with the front rails. I preferred to make them straight. Inboard side of the connector lines up with the outboard side of the framerail. This still makes them plenty stiff for structural continuity. You can also see the seam sealer covering the non stock seam at the back end of the dart floor pan.
