Switching to Manual Steering

Just general info from my experience...
3 bolts attach the steering gear to the K member. A split pin attaches the box coupling to the steering gear. That's all the hardware there is and it does transfer. Center the wheels straight ahead and drive the split pin out ( its now vertical on the engine side of the box ). The little V notch filed in the lower edge of the box coupling identifies the master spline location and should be right there on the top. This box coupling can be a biotch to get off the gearbox shaft. A pickle fork can work. Of course you'll need to first unbolt the steering column ( 3 points under dash and 3 more at firewall ) so it can move away from, off the shaft. A pile of books or something in the seat under the steering wheel will help maintain alignment, reduces binding ( the split pin groove breaks the splines into 2 sections, ads to the fun ). You don't want to screw up the top of that box coupling unless you need to rebuild the coupling. That's a judgement call. Maybe check for lost motion in it early, when centering/preparing to drive that pin out. Even when rebuilding you should plan to reuse that top. Distort it only enough to get it off. Enough about that thing for now. We can come back to it if we must.
Center the next steering gear the same, pitman position and all.
Those 3 bolts in the K have a history of working loose, eventually detrimental to the nuts welded inside the K. You might find special bolt heads there too ( varies w/ year model ). If my memory serves, a 12 point 7/16 socket fits those.
Clean flat mating surfaces, 3 bolts evenly torqued a must whether lock tite is applied or not.
Column mounting under the dash is slotted so when bolting the column back, try to get back in about center of that up/down travel. The firewall plate will likely have hardware scars to show where it was before.