Generator to alternator
Easy, just depends on how you want to do it
..........My darn poor editing skills
Basically you come off the ignition switch "run" contact and branch that off, one wire to one of the alternator field terminals, the other to the VR IGN terminal as shown.
The F terminal on the regulator goes to the remaining alternator field terminal. The field terminals can be switched, does not matter.
Battery charge wire has a couple of options. If you want to do minimal work, hook the alternator output wire to the old BATT wire from the regulator.
(Regulator should have three wires, labeled B for BATT, F for FIELD, and G for GENERATOR or A for ARMATURE
If you don't need/ want the ammeter, feed the charge wire direct to the battery. Obviously, tape off remaining old regulator wires
Some caveats.........
1....make sure your switched power feeding the VR/ regulator is BEFORE the ballast, IE full battery.
2...Make certain the VR is well grounded and double check it below:
You want to make sure the VR is actually sensing TRUE battery voltage. That means it must NOT have voltage drop either in the harness or the ground circuit. To check this:
A........With key in "run" but engine stopped, stab one meter probe into the battery POS post. Hook the other meter probe to your ignition "run" such as the blue field wire. Do not unhook any wires, make this measurement with everythig connected "normal." You are hoping for a VERY low voltage, the lower the better. Anything more than .3V (3/10 of one volt) you should be looking to find out why.
The functional path for drop is From battery......any terminals, fuses, or connections......through the ammeter and it's connections...........through the ignition switch and it's connector if any.........through any other terminals, bulkhead feed through, ...........etc.........out to the VR IGN terminal.
That voltage drop causes overcharging by the amount of the drop. EXAMPLE if you assume that the VR is working properly, WHEN WARM, and the battery charged and "normalized" and with the engine running to simulate medium cruise RPM, the VR should produce 13.8--14.2 AT THE battery. If your drop reading (above test) was let's say .8V, that is ADDED to the VR voltage, IE the battery will be 14.6--15V
THE GROUND PATH:
Check it as well. VR MUST be mounted to a solid ground point, firewall, etc, and properly ACTUALLY grounded to battery NEG. To check, run engine "medium cruise" RPM, and check reading with battery "normalized" and once with all loads off, and again with lights, heater, etc running
Stab one meter probe into the top of battery NEG post. Stab remaining probe into the metal mounting flange of the VR. Be sure to stab through rust, paint, etc. As in the first test, you are hoping for a very low reading, zero would be perfect
Easy, just depends on how you want to do it
..........My darn poor editing skills
Basically you come off the ignition switch "run" contact and branch that off, one wire to one of the alternator field terminals, the other to the VR IGN terminal as shown.
The F terminal on the regulator goes to the remaining alternator field terminal. The field terminals can be switched, does not matter.
Battery charge wire has a couple of options. If you want to do minimal work, hook the alternator output wire to the old BATT wire from the regulator.
(Regulator should have three wires, labeled B for BATT, F for FIELD, and G for GENERATOR or A for ARMATURE
If you don't need/ want the ammeter, feed the charge wire direct to the battery. Obviously, tape off remaining old regulator wires
Some caveats.........
1....make sure your switched power feeding the VR/ regulator is BEFORE the ballast, IE full battery.
2...Make certain the VR is well grounded and double check it below:
You want to make sure the VR is actually sensing TRUE battery voltage. That means it must NOT have voltage drop either in the harness or the ground circuit. To check this:
A........With key in "run" but engine stopped, stab one meter probe into the battery POS post. Hook the other meter probe to your ignition "run" such as the blue field wire. Do not unhook any wires, make this measurement with everythig connected "normal." You are hoping for a VERY low voltage, the lower the better. Anything more than .3V (3/10 of one volt) you should be looking to find out why.
The functional path for drop is From battery......any terminals, fuses, or connections......through the ammeter and it's connections...........through the ignition switch and it's connector if any.........through any other terminals, bulkhead feed through, ...........etc.........out to the VR IGN terminal.
That voltage drop causes overcharging by the amount of the drop. EXAMPLE if you assume that the VR is working properly, WHEN WARM, and the battery charged and "normalized" and with the engine running to simulate medium cruise RPM, the VR should produce 13.8--14.2 AT THE battery. If your drop reading (above test) was let's say .8V, that is ADDED to the VR voltage, IE the battery will be 14.6--15V
THE GROUND PATH:
Check it as well. VR MUST be mounted to a solid ground point, firewall, etc, and properly ACTUALLY grounded to battery NEG. To check, run engine "medium cruise" RPM, and check reading with battery "normalized" and once with all loads off, and again with lights, heater, etc running
Stab one meter probe into the top of battery NEG post. Stab remaining probe into the metal mounting flange of the VR. Be sure to stab through rust, paint, etc. As in the first test, you are hoping for a very low reading, zero would be perfect
