Small bolt to big bolt pattern
Couple of pounds??...more like 35 pounds..as far as price "you get what you pay for"..quality cost money always has always will..
Who cares? 35 lbs on a street car is nothing. I've got more than 35 lbs of crap in the trunk of my car right now between the spare tire, jack, and assorted tools. The OP is talking about his sons car and he's on a budget, otherwise he wouldn't ask the cheapest way to do the swap. Doesn't sound like a drag racer after the last couple of hundredths, not all of us have piles of money to throw down the track.
There are plenty of benefits to running the later 73+ stock parts, especially on a street car. Parts can be found at the local Napa or whatever. Aftermarket parts are great and all for saving a few pounds, but on something that's not being raced competitively they just create more headaches. Like the safety wired bolts, aluminum hubs, all the parts coming from Wilwood, etc. Stupid easy and durable has it's place, even if it means being 35 lbs heavier. You won't notice the difference going down the road unless you're on a stopwatch.
Front: You need a 73 and newer front disc setup and you'll need to ream your spindle or get one with the larger ball joint. You can use the factory crap, if you can get it cheap and like it OR just get willwood front discs and be done with it.
This bit doesn't make any sense. If you have 73+ disk set up you don't need to ream anything, you'd actually need a tapered adaptor to keep the small ball joint UCA's (67-72) if you don't want to swap them out. Only way you'd need to ream the spindle is if you wanted to run large ball joint UCA's (73-76) with a small ball joint spindle. But if you're swapping on '73+ disks you don't have a small ball joint spindle, and since the car is a 5x4" stock pattern it doesn't have large ball joint UCA's.
And again, you can get a factory kit from Dr. Diff and have it show up with everything you need right in the box, including the tapered adaptors if you need them. Works great, and you're still using factory parts that are easy to find if you need a quick replacement. And I'd take the customer service from Dr. Diff over the customer service at Wilwood any day. The factory 73+ disks were good enough to be used on cars all the way up until 1989, they're plenty capable for most street cars.
Just depends on what you're after. If you're trying to shave a few pounds, you have to spend a few hundred bucks more. If you'd rather have easy to find, dead solid reliable parts and don't care that there's lighter aftermarket parts out there the stock stuff makes a lot more sense. I've run the stock stuff, I've run the later mopar 11.75" rotors with the stock calipers (for 60k miles on my challenger), and I run 13" rotors with cobra style calipers from Dr. Diff. The stock stuff is just fine for a lot of applications.
