New Clutch.....Problems
I installed a new "factory replacement B&B clutch" and did a preliminary adjustment of the rod to the clutch fork so to have a little clearance be the release bearing and clutch fingers.
With the engine off the pedal feels fine when pushing it to the floor and through it travel. When I started the car and pushed the pedal to the floor I heard a scraping sound and I could feel it in the pedal.
I tried to shift it in to first but it did not want to go in.
I shut the car off and was then able to shift into first. I decided to start the car in gear, so I pushed the clutch to the floor and hit the starter. The car started to lurch forward and again I heard noise that sounded like grinding.
Is this being caused by the clutch not being adjusted correctly? If so, which way do I have to go on the adjuster.
Maybe you just pushed it too far? and the fingers got into the springs.
I know on my 1969 linkage and at 1/2 to 1 inch freeplay the clutch is separated at about (guessing) 80% of the available pedal travel. There is (guessing again) about 1 to 1.25 inches at the bottom of extra travel that I never use.
If you HAVE to use all of the travel,that's a good indicator that the clutch departure is insufficient, which kindof speaks to a bent disc. And the grinding is proving it......... unless; your TO fork is too short, or it is incorrectly installed, or the Z-bar is wobbling around.
The Z-bar has to be anchored at the outboard end by that fancy wire clip deally,To prevent lateral movement. And the frame anchor needs to be welded. And the bushings need to be in reasonably good shape.
The pushrod from the Z-bar to the fork should be approximately parallel to an imaginary line drawn through the center of the car,in plan view.
The TO fork needs to be engaged by both clips on the TO bearing carrier.
The fork pivot needs to be of the correct height to put the outboard end in the correct working relationship.
And the trans needs to be sucked right up tight to the bell and the input shaft not jammed into the back of the crank,lol. Sometimes the tip of the input has to be cut off to fit into an automatic crank. If the input is jammed into the crank it won't stop spinning. But I wouldn't think would make a grinding noise. At least no one who has had this problem, reported a grinding here on FABO.
The lurching forward on start-up, in ear, as you describe, could be either; either the lack of departure, or a jammed input. Or, I suppose; a gear seizing on the M/S, or the tranny stuck in two gears, but those aren't supposed to happen,lol.
