Oem clutch; then adjust the freeplay to about 1 inch, (exact measurement is not critical), And only push the clutch pedal as far as you need to, to disengage the engine from the driveshaft.
The less freeplay you run, the sooner the clutch will disengage; but the sooner it will over-center as well. So then the sooner you have to stop pedal travel.
It's nice to have a little extra travel for engaging reverse without grinding.
The one inch spec is so the freeplay will remain adequate for a longer period. But sooner or later, as mileage accrues, the freeplay will approach zero, and then you will hear the TO bearing spinning along;not a good thing.
And finally be sure you're not confusing tirespin, with clutch-slip. If the clutch was truly "hesitating", then the rpm should also be flaring, which you would see on the tach. But more telling, a slipping clutch is easily diagnosed by the incredibly acrid stink and smoke it makes, which lingers quite a while. Once you've smelled it, you will never forget it.
I have and recommend the CenterForce diaphragm. But I cannot recommend the CFII disc for street. It is incredibly good at what it is supposed to do. I broke a lotta stuff behind the clutch with that disc, and 295s . You know; those weak-azz BFGs, and Cobras, everybody rags on,lol. Well, the ragging is sorta justifiable, they only stick during the first summer. And by the third they're kindof like rollerskates; incredibly much fun to slide with. When they stop howling, they're done.You can still drive them, but your 60fts will measured with a sundial.
