1 3/4" headers

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Foomaster

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I have a stroke 340-416 motor
10:1 compression
Lunatic voodoo cam .494/513 lift duration 226/234
Edlebrock Performer heads 65cc
Edlebrock Air gap intake
Edlebrock performer 750 carb.
72 Duster with power steering
car is mainly for street, hoping for some drag time in the future.

It is time for my engine builder to test the motor and I am finishing the mopart list of things I need and one of them are the headers. Doug told me that we would prefer 1 3/4" headers. I see Hooker has some part number 5115-1HKR but no reviews on the summitracing site as far as fitting.

I see 1 5/8 headers on summit that have decent reviews. My question is how much would I loose in Horse Power sense and torque if I stick with 1 5/8 headers instead of the prefer 1 3/4".


Does anybody have any suggestion for 1 3/4" that will fit the duster with ease?

Thanks

 
WoW .. Looks like TTi got their **** together for that catalog .. Covered quite a few of the pitfalls and suggested remedies ..
 
I have a stroke 340-416 motor
10:1 compression
Lunatic voodoo cam .494/513 lift duration 226/234
Edlebrock Performer heads 65cc
Edlebrock Air gap intake
Edlebrock performer 750 carb.
72 Duster with power steering
car is mainly for street, hoping for some drag time in the future.

It is time for my engine builder to test the motor and I am finishing the mopart list of things I need and one of them are the headers. Doug told me that we would prefer 1 3/4" headers. I see Hooker has some part number 5115-1HKR but no reviews on the summitracing site as far as fitting.

I see 1 5/8 headers on summit that have decent reviews. My question is how much would I loose in Horse Power sense and torque if I stick with 1 5/8 headers instead of the prefer 1 3/4".


Does anybody have any suggestion for 1 3/4" that will fit the duster with ease?

Thanks
Read under the next quote

What he is running is what I am running
And they fit really well. I did require 1 small dent. I have the smaller 1-5/8 - 1-3/4 header into there 2-1/2 full exhaust.
IMO, an excellent street package.

Watch these videos as they should help show you some stuff.
While the first video may have you saying I'll get the smaller cheaper header, watch on.







 
Thanks for the vid's, I watch the 1st one so far, would watch the others but work is callling me. :(
 
the step or the 1 3/4 is the way to go.

You in reality have a big block. It needs big block exhaust.
 
I will get these TTI's. Sounds like a great choice. So the step just means the header mounts at 1 5/8" and converts to 1 3/4" farther down the header? If I am not correct please school me.
 
dang for ceramic coating is strongly suggested to run old headers or cast iron manifolds for the engine break in.
 
No worries. Find old headers or exhaust manifolds from someone. Watch your engine temp! Stop running the engine if it gets to 200*, let it cool down.

If you can, get the carb looked at and tuned (as well as you can) before it runs on the engine.

I broke in a few coated headers following the above. The heat from the engine when it becomes to hot, AKA overheating, will bake the coating right off.
 
Maybe get the unpainted ones and do this to them afterwards

POR-15 High Temperature Paint 44216

save some money on the headers
 
No, if anything, purchase the uncoated headers, if need be, dent them for install and fitment and then send them out to be coated.
 
Or have it broken in and tuned on a dyno. Safer an it's ready to roll.
 
No, if anything, purchase the uncoated headers, if need be, dent them for install and fitment and then send them out to be coated.[/QUO
No, if anything, purchase the uncoated headers, if need be, dent them for install and fitment and then send them out to be coated.
so what coating you recommend out of the options TTI gives ya?
 
I wondered about that, it shows for me if I click to expand...


Anyway what do you recommend for coating option on those TTI's. I am not too particular for high quality shines, to let you know.
 
You could allways go back to TTI or other places like Jet Hot Coating, HTC, etc.....

Reply outside the quote tags! Otherwise it looks like I said what you typed in and sometimes, cause for arguments. As some other sim whitted A hole will assume I wrote what you actually replied to.

I also don't read the quoted message as I have ether wrote it myself or all ready read it from the original poster.

So why would I open up a quote tag except in a case of a refresher to an older post?
 
If you have manual steering you can use the Hooker 5204. It will make more power. Unless you have spent a bunch of time doing the porting and getting the cam timing for the stepped header it won't make as much power as a straight header. I've seen it too many times.

We won't even get into merge collectors or collectors with the pinch in them.
 
If you have manual steering you can use the Hooker 5204. It will make more power. Unless you have spent a bunch of time doing the porting and getting the cam timing for the stepped header it won't make as much power as a straight header. I've seen it too many times.

We won't even get into merge collectors or collectors with the pinch in them.


It depends. If everything is optimized for bigger tubes they always loose power.

A few years ago I have several phone calls of a hour or so each with Calvin Elston. It was worth it. He confirmed what I had been finding, even though we didn't always agree on how I got there.

Essentially, his philosophy is (and don't quote me...it's better to call him yourself so he can explain it to you) that the exhaust port is too big. So is the exhaust valve. On that we agree. We also agree that most primary tubes are way too long and most guys make up for that with bigger tubes. Where we disagree is that 85% of the guys out there can't afford to do a set of custom headers, plus all the R&D it takes to make a stepped header, or even more work to make a 4-2-1 header with merge collectors work.

To make that work, you have to start at the carb and work to the collector. That means an entirely different intake lobe on the cam, different exhaust lobe, corrected exhaust port. It's a bunch of money.
 
What your suggesting is a total rework of the engine to suite a header? Not creating a header to suite the engine. Which would be easier to do but crazy for 99% of us in cost.

Ether way, the parts available to the end user are one thing. In general, most end users do not have or want to exercise the grey matter or spend the insane amount of money needed for such an adventure in the math skills, machinery, contacts, time, the will or the want to create an engine at this level.

It's actually ludicrous.

We presently, the majority of the forum, live and deal with the parts available to use from the aftermarket. We do what we can with what we have. Because that's all we have.

And yet, we still go fast.
(Or as fast as the wallet allows)
 
What your suggesting is a total rework of the engine to suite a header? Not creating a header to suite the engine. Which would be easier to do but crazy for 99% of us in cost.

Ether way, the parts available to the end user are one thing. In general, most end users do not have or want to exercise the grey matter or spend the insane amount of money needed for such an adventure in the math skills, machinery, contacts, time, the will or the want to create an engine at this level.

It's actually ludicrous.

We presently, the majority of the forum, live and deal with the parts available to use from the aftermarket. We do what we can with what we have. Because that's all we have.

And yet, we still go fast.
(Or as fast as the wallet allows)


Technically...that would be correct except the premise is the exhaust valve/port is too big in most heads. So........if you start over and develop a head with a smaller exhaust port and valve that leaves more room for a bigger intake valve. Hence, more flow on the intake side.

Now that the exhaust port/valve is smaller, and the intake is flowing more you have to compensate with the header. Use a smaller, significantly shorter primary, probably a 4-2-1 configuration with a relatively long collector with a significant choke point at a specific place. Now you have to have an exhaust lobe and the LSA completely different from what you would normally have.

That was essentially the coversation I had with Calvin. I had just dyno'd a very expensive set of headers that were a complete fail so I called him. We went over everything and then said his header builder screwed him. No step, fairly big tubes (2.125 on a 434 chev) with a 26 inch primary and a 4 inch collector 20-22 inches long.

They beat the stepped headers by over 80 at peak and was better than 50 average everywhere.

Headers are way more science than most think. Even the turn coming off the head is a big deal. The sharper the turn, the bigger the tube MUST be. Factory chassis cars are at a disadvantage because there is almost no way to get enough straight tube off the port.
 
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