Big Burnout?

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HTMLmopars

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So I just bought a 8.25 axle from a 76 f body to replace my 7.25 in my 68. The 3.23/suregrip combo is going to make the car actually driveable in the rain. But with the conversion to big bolt pattern out back, I'm going to buy new tires to fit on the 15" rims I'm upgrading to (I'm cheap, but not used tires cheap). That will leave me with four wheels and tires that I can use on the front of my car. I came up with the idea of welding the 7.25 and then just destroying a set of tires/breaking the axle since I'm getting new tires and a new axle. Is this a terrible idea? It's a bit of extra effort, but it would be a good smoke cloud. Are any of the Mopar purists out there going to be mad at me for junking a 7.25 peg-legger?
 
I wouldn't. My 7.25 is starting to howl. Wanna know what to expect when I find another rear axle so I can see how much damage happens when it explodes.
 
Under car go pro is the hot ticket here.
 
Edit, now that I say that, is there really any reason not to leave the rear cover off and let it run dry while recording?
 
Edit, now that I say that, is there really any reason not to leave the rear cover off and let it run dry while recording?

depends on how many sets of tires you intent to incinerate
 
i would be all for it BUT if you trash your rear end it might damage your trans but if its a 4 banger go for it .
 
That's what I was looking for. Don't really want to buy another 904, even though they don't seem to be very expensive.

Blowing a rear end could very well take out the trans along with it from the possible driveline backlash.
Not to mention the possibility of the driveline, extension housing and output shaft getting trashed in the process.
No way I'd risk it.
 
So since running it dry will definitely blow the rear end, if I throw fluid in it after welding it, will it have a pretty good likelihood of surviving a big burnout? I mean, since it won't have traction it shouldn't be too hard on the rear end, plus I know the spider gears are what break on the 7.25s, so by welding, it should increase strength?
 
Sittin still snatching gears. It's a test really. See how strong them parts are
 
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a 4 banger in a 68?
please explain
It happens. Ran across this many years ago. Think it might be a Nissan engine.
 
I'm sure it does, but not often enough to make blanket statements concerning them
 
Only thing i could find for my barracuda locally was a 7-1/4. Didnt give it away either. So here i am desperately hunting for a diff so my project will move so i can get on with fixing it up and they be falling outta the sky south of the canada border.
I'd do it too if rear diffs were plentiful.
That 4 banger looks iffy. Missed a few spots with the paint roller too. All wrong,with the fwd it would have been a challenge to get in there.
 
With no cover, what's the possibility of flinging parts at your fuel tank if you break something?
 
I wouldn't. My 7.25 is starting to howl. Wanna know what to expect when I find another rear axle so I can see how much damage happens when it explodes.

F my old 2.76 7 1/4 pegleg.
Drivetrain and suspension before engine. 400-470 is second to last. Paint and body last. New Dana 60, about $4650 damage all parts and shipping. Worth every penny.

Cass at Dr. Diff is very helpful.
 
Only thing i could find for my barracuda locally was a 7-1/4. Didnt give it away either. So here i am desperately hunting for a diff so my project will move so i can get on with fixing it up and they be falling outta the sky south of the canada border.
I'd do it too if rear diffs were plentiful.
That 4 banger looks iffy. Missed a few spots with the paint roller too. All wrong,with the fwd it would have been a challenge to get in there.
It took me a while to find the diff for my car for a reasonable price, I think all the a body width diffs are pretty hard to find
 
I've welded spiders before.
Just make sure you weld All spiders in at least 2 places.
Or you will be un happy fast.......
 
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