440/4 speed install, which method?

>I've done it every way but always with SBs. I like #2.
>As to #4, I made a carriage, to support the engine/trans/K in the exact right position, to drop the body down over it,using a hoist. I used it once.
>But then I built a real nice engine tilter, and so I now use #3.

If I use #1, or #2, then I adjust the rake of the car in front to back plane so that the trans is parallel to the floor. Then I can drive the trans straight into the back of the engine, or the engine straight back to the trans. I also use 3inch line-up pins (bolts with the heads cut off and screwdriver slots cut into the ends), to guide them together. I don't know if the above method will work with a BB,never having installed one.
But with my new Passon Performance aluminum mainbox and the GVOD aluminum tailhouse, the M/T only weighs 85 pounds, so now I hoist it up and slam it in there, with the car on a 4-post lift. There was this one summer.........when I was experimenting with street-slick-shifting,and trans ratios, and trying to use synthetic oil, and tuning that incredibly harsh CFII, that this light weight came in real handy. It got to the point that with the car on the hoist and up, and all the right tools on the cart and under there with me, it was 17 minutes to remove the D-shaft/exhaust/etc, separate the GVOD off, pull the stick, and rip her out. I have witnesses,lol.
BTW; I highly don't recommend the A833od for anything over teener power. I had several transmissions I was experimenting with, and occasionally in the heat of battle,forgot which one was in there.And if you accidentally shift into od under power, ZING!, it's Gone, Kaput, Stripped,Busted.I even ripped the input teeth off one of those.
I got tired of that and went back to the regular A833 direct4th, and shelved the CFII disc.No more issues.
I now have some interesting overdrive desk-art.