340 Dart disappointing time slip

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Thanks AJ

I see where this is about all that car will do... once you calculate the rpm it's is pretty close to running out.

Next time I might just throw a tachometer in the to see what I can get just by changing shift points.

So the main other issue was the clutch I can't seem to remember from my younger days but was it not for the clutch to float like that... I mean a halt a second for it to release from 3rd yo 4th under WOT

E
Is it a diaphragm clutch perhaps?
 
Hell my 3 finger in my 66 sticks to the floor when I try to power shift. The old Super Stock guys used to screw a block of wood the the floor as a pedal stop so it wouldn't happen.
 
Just hit "reply" and you won't get a blank post.
 
No this a OEM stock clutch...

I was considering swapping to a Centerforce Dual Friction but still not sure. If this is as good as it's going to get them why spend money

I do have a question though about the clutch diameter size. Is it a 10 1/2 inch or 11 inch...

Can't seem to remember

Ed
 
Probably a 10" Mopar always did have smaller clutches. I don't know why.
 
I would be proud. That's about what those ran new. With a little finesse, you could improve, I am sure. Pictures of said car?
 
Oem clutch; then adjust the freeplay to about 1 inch, (exact measurement is not critical), And only push the clutch pedal as far as you need to, to disengage the engine from the driveshaft.
The less freeplay you run, the sooner the clutch will disengage; but the sooner it will over-center as well. So then the sooner you have to stop pedal travel.
It's nice to have a little extra travel for engaging reverse without grinding.
The one inch spec is so the freeplay will remain adequate for a longer period. But sooner or later, as mileage accrues, the freeplay will approach zero, and then you will hear the TO bearing spinning along;not a good thing.
And finally be sure you're not confusing tirespin, with clutch-slip. If the clutch was truly "hesitating", then the rpm should also be flaring, which you would see on the tach. But more telling, a slipping clutch is easily diagnosed by the incredibly acrid stink and smoke it makes, which lingers quite a while. Once you've smelled it, you will never forget it.
I have and recommend the CenterForce diaphragm. But I cannot recommend the CFII disc for street. It is incredibly good at what it is supposed to do. I broke a lotta stuff behind the clutch with that disc, and 295s . You know; those weak-azz BFGs, and Cobras, everybody rags on,lol. Well, the ragging is sorta justifiable, they only stick during the first summer. And by the third they're kindof like rollerskates; incredibly much fun to slide with. When they stop howling, they're done.You can still drive them, but your 60fts will measured with a sundial.
 
Oem clutch; then adjust the freeplay to about 1 inch, (exact measurement is not critical), And only push the clutch pedal as far as you need to, to disengage the engine from the driveshaft.
The less freeplay you run, the sooner the clutch will disengage; but the sooner it will over-center as well. So then the sooner you have to stop pedal travel.
It's nice to have a little extra travel for engaging reverse without grinding.
The one inch spec is so the freeplay will remain adequate for a longer period. But sooner or later, as mileage accrues, the freeplay will approach zero, and then you will hear the TO bearing spinning along;not a good thing.
And finally be sure you're not confusing tirespin, with clutch-slip. If the clutch was truly "hesitating", then the rpm should also be flaring, which you would see on the tach. But more telling, a slipping clutch is easily diagnosed by the incredibly acrid stink and smoke it makes, which lingers quite a while. Once you've smelled it, you will never forget it.
I have and recommend the CenterForce diaphragm. But I cannot recommend the CFII disc for street. It is incredibly good at what it is supposed to do. I broke a lotta stuff behind the clutch with that disc, and 295s . You know; those weak-azz BFGs, and Cobras, everybody rags on,lol. Well, the ragging is sorta justifiable, they only stick during the first summer. And by the third they're kindof like rollerskates; incredibly much fun to slide with. When they stop howling, they're done.You can still drive them, but your 60fts will measured with a sundial.
Cool so I can try the adjustment first then if I need to replace it just go with the 10 inch Centerforce
 
I would be proud. That's about what those ran new. With a little finesse, you could improve, I am sure. Pictures of said car?
This all I have right now new phone and all the old pictures were on it.

I'll have to take some new ones

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Make sure the Z-bar is fixed in space and that nothing is rubbing on any of the linkages, and that the engine is tied down and cannot torque over to jam anything up.
I wouldn't be in a hurry to shelf the OEM unit...........yet. Especially since you didn't mention stink and smoke.
 
Make sure the Z-bar is fixed in space and that nothing is rubbing on any of the linkages, and that the engine is tied down and cannot torque over to jam anything up.
I wouldn't be in a hurry to shelf the OEM unit...........yet. Especially since you didn't mention stink and smoke.
Thanks I have an appointment at the performance garage to look at it... he thinks it's just adjustment.. however if you just press on the clutch slightly you can feel vibration though your foot... Is that normal or is it the throw out bearing

Anyways he check it out... he is a good mechanic and doesn't believe in replacing stuff if it's not broken

Here are a few more pics I took of the car

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Thanks I have an appointment at the performance garage to look at it... he thinks it's just adjustment.. however if you just press on the clutch slightly you can feel vibration though your foot... Is that normal or is it the throw out bearing

Anyways he check it out... he is a good mechanic and doesn't believe in replacing stuff if it's not broken

Here are a few more pics I took of the car

View attachment 1715092466 View attachment 1715092466 View attachment 1715092467 View attachment 1715092466 View attachment 1715092467 View attachment 1715092468 View attachment 1715092466 View attachment 1715092467 View attachment 1715092468 View attachment 1715092469
Ctap sorry about the duplicates
 
If it jingles, as in jingle bells, or grinds with just a little pressure on the pedal is usually a good sign the throwout bearing is toast. Just a rythmic/rotary feel to the pedal is pretty much normal.
 
If it jingles, as in jingle bells, or grinds with just a little pressure on the pedal is usually a good sign the throwout bearing is toast. Just a rythmic/rotary feel to the pedal is pretty much normal.
That's good I think I'm just feeling the rythmic rotary feel it... or it might slightly grinding I'll have it checked out
 
the 340 came with a 10 1/2 clutch. it's a B&B style, best way to keep pedal off floor is to put a stop between pedal and floor
the stock clutch will hold the load. we ran same clutch years ago, had no problems with it. a tach would help you a lot. good luck.
 
Wow! Very nice car!
Your et is not bad at all. I think stock was 14.80's for the 4 speed.
 
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