72 Duster Resurrection

If you pull the A904 from the dart, that will work on your 318. Trans mount is same as your 6. Not sure if driveshaft slipyoke is the same on the slant 6 A904.

You will need adaptor mounts to run the 318 in place of the slant 6. A slant 6 K frame has different mount on the passenger side if its a 67-72 k frame. Schumacher makes a slant 6 to 318 set of adaptor mounts. This way you can drop the teener in place of the slanty and not have to swap out the slanty K frame. I wish they had those way back when. I passed on a lot of cherry A bodies because they had a leaning tower of power in them.

When you put that trans in it has a metal rod linkage that goes up to the carb called a kickdown or passing gear linkage. Make sure you hook it up. If not you will quickly burn the trans out. If you end up putting a non stock height intake, and 4 barrel carb, summit racing makes a nice cable actuated kickdown setup, and because its cable actuated it can be routed to prevent pinching, or clearsnce problems with the stock kickdown rods. its unaffected by a change in carb height or width, or transmission girth if you stuck a big 727 in there. Then round up all the stock pieces from carb to trans including the crank arm and its pivot pin on the bellhousing side, and sell it as one setup complete.

Another thing with the trans swap is to take the inspection shield off the front bottom of the V8 trans before removal from the car, then with a hammer and a punch, put a punch mark on the transmission flexplate next to one of the 4 bolts that holds it to the torque converter, then put a punchmark on the torque converter next to that same bolt. These are your line up marks. The flexplates and torque converters are drilled with offset holes, and the converter will line up with the flexplate only one way. When you get it all swapped over to the V8 going in the duster,, and the transmission is attached, then you will have to bolt up the torque converter. Before reattaching the torque converter bolts to the flex plate, manually bump the engine over until the punchmark on the flexplate is accessable from underneath, then by hand turn the torque converter until its punch mark lines up. Install the first bolt hand tight, then rotate the engine by hand and attach the other 3, after that tighten all 4 of them.

FYI, the easy way to manually turn the engine for this is a large 1&1/4" socket on the center crank bolt, and remove all 8 spark plugs.

Brake hoses you need to look up for a 1974 to 76. This will eliminate the hoses for front drum brakes which i think ended in 1973. If it doesnt then look em up for 1975 -76 by then front drums were not offered.

I have used parts by A1 cardone, raybestos, centric, but dont recognise the rest.