72 Demon slanty-to-340 Resto

I have 2 local yards that let me go in and nose around. One ia 10 acres, and he lets me drive my truck in, and go up and down the rows. This allows me to bring my floor jack and other tools i need.

As far as the 8.75s being all over the place, glad to hear it is like that in your area mr. BluNblu where you have 8.75s all over the place. See below. Start adding the costs to build one in my area, and i am a bargain shopper. I left no stone unturned looking for one. Ended up having to piece one together, the only thing i could find was i lucked onto a shortened truck housing no perches welded on, with all SBP brakes, and axles no center chunk for $275 firm. He would not seperate and sell me just the axle tube. It was in lubbock which is hours away. Family road trip to visit my wifes old friends. Buy a 67 C body axle complete with smaller 11x2 brakes just for its 742 chunk $100. Was hoping i could have the C body axles cut and resplined. Axles were necked down, were not resplinable. Buy MP perches $20. Rebuild larger swept area 10x2.5" BBP drum brakes off 74 7.25 axle to put on 8.75. New wheel cylinders, all new hardware, new shoes, a set of 10x2.5" finned rear drums off cordoba. Total $150. New doctor diff axles w green bearings A body length BBP $300. Now onto the chunk itself. It had freeway gears in it, and a pegleg diff. I dont remember the ratio, but it was somewhat less than sporting. So new motive gear 3.73 gear set, bearings and install kit, limited slip, new ring gear bolts. $700 , payed a buddy of mine whos the local high auto school shop teacher $50 to rebuild it and use it as a teaching tool while he was at it. His price not mine. He runs a top alcohol dragster with a shortened 8.75 in it, and sets up his chunks, so i trust him. Add it all up it was $1,595. I sold the small bolt pattern axles for $150, and the small bolt pattern bell drums, everything from backing plate out with new wheel cylinders and pads the way i purchased it $150. So by selling these parts i was only ahead of the game on my original parts purchase by $25. And my total after selling those parts was $1,295 and a few years of rounding up the cash and parts to do it.

If you live in an area where the yards are littered w 8.75s dirt cheap, i say go for it, however they are as rare as hens teeth here, and the only way your gonna get one here is to piece it together yourself. Oh and BTW every C body i come across in my local bone yard that should have an 8.75 is sitting w no engine or trans in it, and the back bumper in the dirt, and the leaf springs are hanging out of the trunk. My C body rear came out of the houston area. The guy was looking for mopar stuff up this way and had one. Offered to load it and bring it for free. The $1,295 climbs another $20 as i lucked out on some 3" shock plates lying in the trunk of a 66 fury on a junkyard visit and didnt have to wrench em off and the salvage owner didnt charge me gold plated prices for em either.

I like my 8.75. I think the welded rear cover is sexy looking, and drop out third member is great. But after what i went thru and spent to get it, i will never do that again. A mopar guy runs the other boneyard i frequent. He is outta 8.25s, no A or B body 8.75s either. He turned me on to fabo 10 years ago, and also recently the Furd xploder axle swap, i researched it from there. My sons car will have the xploder axle under it. Cheapest way to BBP, rear discs, good performance minded gears, and a locker. A little modfing if you want it closer to A body width, and a set of new perches for a 3.50" axle tube and away you go. Also the xploder finned aluminum rear cover off the independent rear axle xploders bolts on. Paint it black and polish the fins. Looks cool.

Hey, no offense meant. I just posted my experience, and I honestly haven't seen an A-body 8.25. Like ever. They only came in the 73+ cars, and the vast majority of those had /6's and 7.25's. Even the ones with 318's had 7.25's a lot of the time, I know my '74 Dart parts car did.

But I have seen plenty of 8 3/4's. I have like 5 pickNpull yards within about 30 minutes of me though. I actually stopped pulling 8 3/4's because I have a bunch, couple of C-body 8 3/4's, a sweptline era truck 8 3/4 (for my satellite with an 8.25), and a couple of B-body 8 3/4's that I bought online and had shipped to me. Neither of those cost more than $250, even bought online and shipped. So, you don't necessarily need to find one local as long as you're willing to use a B-body housing.

The 8.8's get used because they're strong enough, and Explorers of the right era are easy to find in most local salvage yards. So, you can get them cheap, they usually have decent gears (lots have the 3.73 and a limited slip), and they come with disk brakes. So you can't beat the price, I mean, I could get a complete 8.8 from pickNpull for under $200 most of the time. And if you can weld you can shorten them. But again, you don't even need to shorten them for a Demon if you don't mind running slightly higher offset wheels. So basically if you have some mechanical skills the 8.8 is a great way to cheaply install a rear end that won't blow up, has disk brakes already, and usually doesn't even need a gear change or limited slip added. If of course you can get over the Ford thing. :p