700 Hp on NA pump gas

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Andrew, I will probably get flamed for saying so, but you don't need 700hp to max out top end very quickly with these cars. Even with your aero enhancements, the wind is not your friend.
Why is 700 the magic number?
If you need a 700hp dyno slip you could probably build a 650hp and still get one that says 700 on some local import tuner's dyno . ;-)
 
No boost because it is not necessary and adds complexity to something that is WAY complex already.
I have been in touch with Scott @ Eatmon race parts, and an R5/P7 build, being the top of the bar, does this quite easily. 10.5:1 745HP 540 ftlbs and only 358CID!
I have found a TBI unit that can fuel this with data logging and other features that may simplify my life.
I am not ready to pull the trigger on this yet, there may be some space (height) constraints involved.
I also found a 700HP R3/W2 build the does this but the comp ratio is high (13.2:1) no telling what the DCR is though. They are both about the same cost.
I did confirm with TCI that the bell housing will bolt to the R5 block.
This is just the beginning of the process.
 
KnuckleDuster said:
Andrew, I will probably get flamed for saying so, but you don't need 700hp to max out top end very quickly with these cars. Even with your aero enhancements, the wind is not your friend.
Why is 700 the magic number?
If you need a 700hp dyno slip you could probably build a 650hp and still get one that says 700 on some local import tuner's dyno . ;-)
Click to expand...
What makes you say that? Just because I am trying to push a reclining refrigerator on wheels through the air? 8-)
I figured that was a good nomber for a well built small block. There are other considerations, I am open to the possibilities.
 
273 said:
Crazy torque per cid.
If the OP goes with heads that flow closer to 400 cfm he should be able to reach his goal.
But buying that engine would be more cost effective.
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Thanks i took a look and some aspects of it dont float my boat.
 
KnuckleDuster said:
Why is 700 the magic number?
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Hey!!!!!!

Sounds great to me and if it can be done with local pump gas swill, even better!!!!

Why the hell not!

Heck, if
I only had money.... LMAO
1,500 hp sounds like a nice round number to shoot for as well.
 
The disclaimer **A dyno is just another tool**.

On pump 93 my N/A 434 dynoed 703 hp @ 5750 rpm's and 624 ft lbs @ 5000 rpm's on Dale Meers dyno at Meers Racing Engines in Buffalo KY. I'm not going to speculate if it's a generous or stingy dyno. All I wanted to do was break in and tune my engine in on it.

It's gone 108.59 mph in the 1/8 in my 3350# 69 Dart.

R1 block, 4.090" bore
BPE 4.125" Crank
Comp Star 6.200" rods
Custom Diamond pistons, 11.2-1 compression
T&D 1.7" rockers
Comp solid roller, 263/271 @ .050", .433/.437 lobe lift, .711/.719" @ the retainer after lash
Ported Indy 360-1 and ported Indy intake
Dynoed with a Bigs 950HP
 
justinp61 said:
The disclaimer **A dyno is just another tool**.

On pump 93 my N/A 434 dynoed 703 hp @ 5750 rpm's and 624 ft lbs @ 5000 rpm's on Dale Meers dyno at Meers Racing Engines in Buffalo KY. I'm not going to speculate if it's a generous or stingy dyno. All I wanted to do was break in and tune my engine in on it.

It's gone 108.59 mph in the 1/8 in my 3350# 69 Dart.

R1 block, 4.090" bore
BPE 4.125" Crank
Comp Star 6.200" rods
Custom Diamond pistons, 11.2-1 compression
T&D 1.7" rockers
Comp solid roller, 263/271 @ .050", .433/.437 lobe lift, .711/.719" @ the retainer after lash
Ported Indy 360-1 and ported Indy intake
Dynoed with a Bigs 950HP
Click to expand...


My blue car ran 109-110 at that same weight, and right at 135 in the 1/4. It was geared for the 1/4,rarely race 1/8 mile around here.Ryan and other guys said it made right about 640. That was the general opinion of a long thread on the other board few years ago. Time has proven they were right.
The guy who bought the car upgraded the motor quite a bit after he bought the car. It now runs 113-114 in the 1/8 and 140 in the in the 1/4. That made 708 at Best Machine on the dyno.
And the car is still on 002/003 leafs and CE 3 way shocks all around, so nothing trick on that front.
Runs good, but it aint making 700 running 108 in the 1/8. Probably 625-635 area. like you said, Dyno is a tuning tool, and helps with convertor selection.
 
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blue missile said:
I have that in my pile of research. I would have to redo the rotating assembly, but it would be a good starting point.
However you can buy a brand new NASCAR motor for the same coin.
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Buy them for even less. Buddy bought a complete motor for under 7500 bucks. Stuck it in a 68 Dart that weighed 3000 and ran low 9.40's at 143. And that was a restrictor plate motor that had a dinky 248/258 cam in it and was 12 to 1
 
B3422w5 said:
My blue car ran 109-110 at that same weight, and right at 135 in the 1/4. It was geared for the 1/4,rarely race 1/8 mile around here.Ryan and other guys said it made right about 640. That was the general opinion of a long thread on the other board few years ago. Time has proven they were right.
The guy who bought the car upgraded the motor quite a bit after he bought the car. It now runs 113-114 in the 1/8 and 140 in the in the 1/4. That made 708 at Best Machine on the dyno.
And the car is still on 002/003 leafs and CE 3 way shocks all around, so nothing trick on that front.
Runs good, but it aint making 700 running 108 in the 1/8. Probably 625-635 area. like you said, Dyno is a tuning tool, and helps with convertor selection.
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I'm only running 4.10 gears, hardly optimal for the 1/8. I drive it on the street a lot so I'm happy.
 
I argued this some years ago and it occurs to me I might be in the same situation here. When someone says "pump gas" I make the assumption that it's gasoline, or a 90/10 gasoline ethanol blend that anyone purchases out of a pump at any quickie-mart or gas station anywhere in the country. Not the "pump fuel" lower octane race fuels that are carefully formulated and bought at the track. So to clarify - where is the OP on that?
 
moper said:
I argued this some years ago and it occurs to me I might be in the same situation here. When someone says "pump gas" I make the assumption that it's gasoline, or a 90/10 gasoline ethanol blend that anyone purchases out of a pump at any quickie-mart or gas station anywhere in the country. Not the "pump fuel" lower octane race fuels that are carefully formulated and bought at the track. So to clarify - where is the OP on that?
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OP is a dreamer that thinks a W2 manifold will bolt up to a R5P7 and run on a TBI EFI system--LOL! Thread is a waste of bandwidth. J.Rob
 
J. Rob, Not dreaming I asked a QUESTION!
I have NO knowledge of the P7 format.
I have also found a TBI that is rated at1200HP I think that should handle the 700.
I am not a stranger to this forum, I put things out there because I am genuinely looking for information.
If you are going to be condescending, be a grownup and just ignore my posts, thankyou.
In the mean time I will continue to push the envelope and do the impossible.
Andrew
 
IMG_1604.GIF
 
I'm still thinking more than airflow or block or fitment - the pump fuel as I understand it just won't let happen.
 
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