* If you have to remove the dipstick tube to get it out of the way, you'll need to drain some/most of the trans fluid.
* You'll probably have to disconnect the exhaust/headers somewhere so you can get them out of the way. Remove, tie or bungee them out of the way.
* During the week while the car is sitting, put something besides a floor jack to support the trans, like a stack of boards. Floor jacks sometimes bleed down.
* Coordinate raising & lowering the trans while pulling and installing the engine so they don't bind up.
* Pulling the radiator can make it easier. But trans cooler lines & fittings will need to be plugged at that end.
* Remove the oil filter so it doesn't get damaged during the swap. Just remember that if you turn the crank, like when removing flexplate bolts, oil may be pumped out. Either plan on replacing it either way or put an old one on.
* There will always be some coolant left in the block, so be aware of that when pulling the engine and swapping freeze plugs. Clean the area very well. Can't hurt to use a little sealant.
* A large socket that fits inside the freeze plug cup can help installing them straight. Tap in carefully.
* Take some photos of anything you might forget how it's oriented. (i.e.: belts, pulleys, brackets, etc.) Label any wires & connections if that might help.
* Remove the distributor cap & wires so they don't get damaged against the firewall during the swap.
* Good time to check/replace the motor mounts if they are old & deteriorated.
* Spray paint an area around ONE flexplate ear & converter before removal so it goes back the same way. One lug is offset.
* Be careful not to pinch any wires between the block & bellhousing when reinstalling.
