Can't advance timing?

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Cope

Cope

Fusing with fire
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With my new 1976 mag pick up distrubter I can't get anymore than 50 BTDC. I'm twisted until the vaccum can hits the intake.
How do I get a decent amount of timing in?

318 motor in a 71 dart.
 
Several ways to get this accomplished.
1) Pull the spark plug wires and back each one up to the previous spot on the distributor cap. Remember the distributor rotation, go the opposite direction.
2) pull the distributor, pull the intermediate shaft and reinstall it one tooth back so the distributor is now phased more advanced.
Either way, you will have to reset the timing with your light.
 
The spark plug wire rotation is the quick and dirty fix. Takes all of two minutes.
 
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You say you have 50* BTDC. Exactly how much timing do you want?
 
50 deg BTDC at idle is what I have. I want to bring it up to 5-10 BTDC
 
Hmmmm, I think you are going the wrong way. The rotor turns clockwise so to get your timing you need to rotate the distributor to the firewall.
Just my opinion.
 
Cope said:
...I can't get anymore than 50 BTDC. ....
Click to expand...

You need to step back and re-think "whut?"

Cope said:
50 deg BTDC at idle is what I have. I want to bring it up to 5-10 BTDC
Click to expand...

5-10 is not advancing from 50, it's retarding. You move the dist CLOCKWISE on a SB to retard it.

50 would normally be way too much timing, whether total or idle. 35 or maybe 40 max

Move the plug wires one hole

Pull the distributor, walk the gear up out of the helix and move it.

Make sure you are reading what you think you are, and that you DO NOT have a "dial up" timing light that is screwing you all up
 
When looking at the timing marks with a dial back light, my mark is way down by the power steering pump. In the past it always went past the water pump.

I thought advance was left of zero and retard was right of zero?
 
I really don't like "dial up" lights as a rule and rarely use one. I've been burned in the past by a couple-three that were not accurate. Also if you are not "astute" you can lead yourself down the wrong road

Also can be confusing is if you have the balancer marked with "marks" but not marked in numerical degrees, you can easily confuse yourself

The FACTORY marks are "retard" or AFTER TDC going clockwise "down" towards the pan as in this photo:

340-timing-marks-jpg.jpg


Advanced is up towards the water pump

I would do a couple of things here:

1.....Get / make a piston stop and find TRUE TDC to start with
2.....Beg or borrow a NOT dial up light at least long enough to make sure yours is accurate with the dial at zero
 
Whoa...50 degrees of initial timing????
You are aware that these engines do not like, want or need that much, right? A stock 318 needs maybe 7 degrees BTDC at idle with a total centrifugal advance of 33-35 at around 2800 rpms. The vacuum advance adds even more than that but will be reduced at WOT and even at part throttle somewhat.
Are you checking the timing with the vacuum advance hose connected to a manifold vacuum port?
 
I have a good digital light. Not some cheep harbor freight deal.

I can use it with zero advance.

I have tried timing with adance on and off.

I'm way before zero, I think my spark is way after where the fire event should be.

Hence super hard to start and floods out.
 
Well ****. Move the distributor. If it won't move far enough, move the PLUG WIRES

Know how I learned to set timing on my 57 Chev when I was 17? Read my Father's Motor's Manuals. We didn't freekin HAVE the dubya dubya dubya in 1966!!
 
Also this is the original engine, that has been beat to piss. Jumped "Hazard County style", run hard and put away wet. Timing chain, gear and tensioner most likely ate up...

I just want to eek out a bit more of run time before the new motor.

..
0
 
This shouldn't be this hard, its a simple procedure. It's time to find TDC on #1 firing stroke and go from there. There are lots of threads here how to do that.
Once you have #1 TDC firing stroke, install distributor and route the wire the rotor is pointing at to #1 plug.
Rock on from there.
 
Hey... Guys that click DISAGREE without having the balls to explain why are gutless pricks.
 
Guys that don't read the thread and haven't an idea what is occurring are ??????

Butthurt? LMAO
 
Kern Dog said:
Hey... Guys that click DISAGREE without having the balls to explain why are gutless pricks.
Click to expand...

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$IIE bYLASD;FA:

picture_unrelated.jpg
 
Why?
Because if you had any understanding of the internal combustion engine, you'd already know...
90 degrees?
Okay...
The spark has to be ignited at a precise point in the compression stroke to light the fuel/air mixture at the right time. Too early and the piston wants to reverse direction/kick back. Too late and the engine is lazy and inefficient.
The reason for it to occur 7-10 degrees BEFORE TDC in a relatively stock engine is because it takes a brief time for the ignited flame to spread. Again, if it lights too early because of too much advance, the mixture tries to burn before the piston is close enough to TDC. This will result in detonation, maybe bent rods, broken piston ring lands, etc.
 
Kern Dog said:
Why?
.
Click to expand...

It was a nonsensical question, and I bet you knew that. Just like the OP should not be trying to operate with FIFTY or more degrees

The statistical chances are more than 70% that I'm old enough "and have" timed my first engine of any sort before you were born, or if not, at least before you knew what the term "static timing" means
 
Lets start over, okay?
It can be difficult to relay sarcasm and smart *** comments through the written word. In person, I am actually courteous and silly at the same time. I have met people face to face that were surprised to find that I am not as offensive in person. Reading a persons body language, vocal inflection and facial expressions go a long way towards understanding them, liking them or even disliking them.
I did actually think you were serious about the 90 degree timing comment...sorry that I misunderstood you.
I was born in 65 and while not yet a senior citizen, I do qualify for the AARP membership. THAT was a ***** slap of reality...
 
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