Anyone ever narrow a dana 60 or a 8 3/4 rear end housing them selves ? I have my dana at a place to get narrowed & its been there for over a month. I gotta get it done. Thinking of doing it my self. The prices of the narrowing tools are crazy for only going to use it once.
dana or 8 3/4 narrowing
- Thread starter cawley
- Start date
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Just sent my 8 3/4 to Moser last month. They did an awesome job and pricing seemed reasonable to me. $145 to narrow both sides.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
I`ve and a bunch others on this site have, and yes the fixture tools are salty.
Maybe find another shop.
Maybe find another shop.
That is a good price but what was the shipping price ?
In my area I only found one place that does it. That's with in 50 miles
mopar head
Well-Known Member
Ya might have to drive further, or just break bad and buy the fixture, got mine from a place on e-bay.
draginmopars
Well-Known Member
Moser has done many for me.
good people.
I Trust their welds,, Better than mine.
good people.
I Trust their welds,, Better than mine.
The Dana is easy to do the 8 3/4 is a little harder but i'm sure your capable .
Im about 95 % sure I can do it. I would like to try it myself.
I think it was about $100.00 round trip but a little more on the return because I ordered axels from them also.
dodgedifferent2
Well-Known Member
Honestly you do not need the fixture.
get a good solid bar.
make your own pucks that fit snug inside ends of housing with a hole to fit the solid bar in.
i have a dummy center 741 chunk i also put in the center with pucks to keep the solid bar straight, but in reality you dont really need that center support.
measure alot.
I then take a 2 good size angle iron and clamp it to the housing. Then slide the new or used ends between the angle irons.
The angle iron keep the outside straight. The bar keeps the housing centered.
I also make a good chamfer where the two ends will meet and fill it full of weld.
I have done my own 8.75 and it has seen some slicks and about 500 foot lbs of torque.
I also have a narrowed dana 60 that i done just in case i pretzel the 8.75
I buy new axles from moser
get a good solid bar.
make your own pucks that fit snug inside ends of housing with a hole to fit the solid bar in.
i have a dummy center 741 chunk i also put in the center with pucks to keep the solid bar straight, but in reality you dont really need that center support.
measure alot.
I then take a 2 good size angle iron and clamp it to the housing. Then slide the new or used ends between the angle irons.
The angle iron keep the outside straight. The bar keeps the housing centered.
I also make a good chamfer where the two ends will meet and fill it full of weld.
I have done my own 8.75 and it has seen some slicks and about 500 foot lbs of torque.
I also have a narrowed dana 60 that i done just in case i pretzel the 8.75
I buy new axles from moser
jtkaaa07
BossMan
I have a how to article on here, done several, and I would highly recommend using a jig, anytime you weld there is a chance of warping, not good. I made a jig myself off the dimensions on a set selling on Ebay .
How to Narrow an 8 3/4 Rear End
How to Narrow an 8 3/4 Rear End
True I made my pucks out of aluminum stock I had lying around easy to turn but I have a lathe cost me 15 bucks and you don't need a jig when you weld it up just weld a small amount and let it cool and a little common sense helps .when I narrow the dana 60 I cut the plug welds on the case and push the tubs out and cut them on the inside part of the tube then push them back in and reweld the plugs . that's if the ends don't need to be changed . if i'm converting a truck d 60 the ends need to be changed . easy peasy pumpkin pie .
451Cuda
Well-Known Member
One trick to help against warping is make marks around the tube on either end to space out your welds to evenly distribute the heat soak.
What I do is mark (on both ends of the housing) a 1 on top, then a 2 on bottom, then a 3 in front, then 4 in back, then go 5-8 between those and always opposite the previous one. And I let it cool a little between...like I'll do both 1's and both 2's, then go work on something else for 10 mins, then both 3's and 4's, then let it cool again, then 5-6, then 7-8. And I do a very narrow land and root/fill/cap...so I'm doing this routine 3 different times. Haven't had any significant movement of the tubes yet.
Oh and when you use an alignment bar, use the end pucks to align it for tacking, then pull them out. If you leave them in while fully welding, they'll be a huge PITA to get out again if there's even a little bit of warpage. Just slide them in at the end to see if you need to adjust.
What I do is mark (on both ends of the housing) a 1 on top, then a 2 on bottom, then a 3 in front, then 4 in back, then go 5-8 between those and always opposite the previous one. And I let it cool a little between...like I'll do both 1's and both 2's, then go work on something else for 10 mins, then both 3's and 4's, then let it cool again, then 5-6, then 7-8. And I do a very narrow land and root/fill/cap...so I'm doing this routine 3 different times. Haven't had any significant movement of the tubes yet.
Oh and when you use an alignment bar, use the end pucks to align it for tacking, then pull them out. If you leave them in while fully welding, they'll be a huge PITA to get out again if there's even a little bit of warpage. Just slide them in at the end to see if you need to adjust.
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daliant
Befuddled
I just skinnied up a dana 60 for my Dart recently with basic fab tools. I used the axle itself w/green style bearing installed as fixture to keep the housing end square while tack welding to the tube. I fried the end on with my old stick welder as I only have a 110v mig. After welding I can slide the axles in and out of the housing with little to no resistance so I must have welded the ends on pretty straight and square.
I'd say if you're confident in your welding ability and your fab skills take a crack at it.
I'd say if you're confident in your welding ability and your fab skills take a crack at it.
4mopwr
Well-Known Member
I have done the same years ago.
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