Driving me crazy

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DavidLee

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I am trying to get a nut off of a pivot arms, it is rusted on, And when I place it in my vice, it just wants to spin. Does anyone know of a insert that can be placed into the vice that would it be tightened on just the small section that a flat jaw touches.
 
Blue tip wrench or big heat.
How about a photo of the situation? It may help.
 
Penetrate oil (WD40 ,PB Blaster,) let it soak 24 hours...
 
can you elaborate?
Smoke wrench = blow torch.

Heat the nut up until it's just starting to turn red, take torch away, wait for it to cool a second or two just enough to stop glowing and hit the nut with an impact gun, it'll spin off
 
Some of us dont have access to oxy-acetelyne torches. I rely on a couple methods,heat with a propane torch and quench with water. Or rattle with impact and a good rust penetrant.
 
This is for a ball joint or tie rod I assume?

If so, sounds like you got the nut broke loose initially then the taper from the ball joint broke loose before you could finish unscrewing it???

That can happen when the rust in the expose md thread past the nut are not clean, still very rusty or the thread are damaged.

All good reason to have a rust penetrant that not only break bolt loose, but is a superior lubricant too so you can complete the job and loosen the bolt all the way out.

I use Justice Brothers JB80 lube. It's great for both those reasons.
 
Some of us dont have access to oxy-acetelyne torches. I rely on a couple methods,heat with a propane torch and quench with water. Or rattle with impact and a good rust penetrant.
Don't need one. A cheap plumbers torch from Walmart (20 bucks) is what I use 90 percent of the time on stuff like this. It uses the little pre filled propane tanks they sell for camp stoves. Works great for stuff like this as it'll heat it enough to start turning red but not enough to melt it. Perfect for under the car too.
 
This is for a ball joint or tie rod I assume?

If so, sounds like you got the nut broke loose initially then the taper from the ball joint broke loose before you could finish unscrewing it???

That can happen when the rust in the expose md thread past the nut are not clean, still very rusty or the thread are damaged.

All good reason to have a rust penetrant that not only break bolt loose, but is a superior lubricant too so you can complete the job and loosen the bolt all the way out.

I use Justice Brothers JB80 lube. It's great for both those reasons.


I soaked it well with pb and went down to a freind's machine shop and used his large vise and got it off.
 
Don't need one. A cheap plumbers torch from Walmart (20 bucks) is what I use 90 percent of the time on stuff like this. It uses the little pre filled propane tanks they sell for camp stoves. Works great for stuff like this as it'll heat it enough to start turning red but not enough to melt it. Perfect for under the car too.

i keep one of those handy by my firepit
perfect for starting bonfires
 
Penetrate oil (WD40 ,PB Blaster,) let it soak 24 hours...

Do that and then lay the nut on a flat on your vise and smack each opposing flat with a hammer.
I do this a lot on some of our stuff and it works really well.
If it's a locking type nut it will still break loose with the hammer trick but you still might not get it off if you cant hold the ball.
A big pair of vise grips on the shaft as hard as you can lock them if you don't need to save that part works pretty good.
 
Two hammers,one like an anvil, the other to smack across on the opposite flat.
 
I am trying to get a nut off of a pivot arms, it is rusted on, And when I place it in my vice, it just wants to spin. Does anyone know of a insert that can be placed into the vice that would it be tightened on just the small section that a flat jaw touches.
 
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