Gasket matching

-
440seven

440seven

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
261
Reaction score
144
Location
Madison, MS
I've had a little time lately and I was grinding on a set of 452's I have. Got to port matching and threw on a gasket that came with my Dougs headers. I'm wondering how far can I actually go here? This seems like a TON of material. Surely this ain't right.

image.jpeg
 
Careful, you want to keep that velocity up just as you want velocity in the intake. I'd leave them alone but a big block guy could quash that. Wha do your header ports look like?
 
Header gaskets are always oversized. I used a set of stock gaskets which were much closer in size.
 
You would ruin the heads if you matched them to those gaskets. When someone tells you they gasket matched the heads the first thing you need to know is which gasket did they match the heads too? There are a lot of different gaskets for BB Mopar engines and they all have different size ports...........
 
I should have added these are already matched to stock style gasket. In this case is it even worth it to go any further?
 
440seven said:
I should have added these are already matched to stock style gasket. In this case is it even worth it to go any further?
Click to expand...


Andyf said it all. Unless your name is Calvin Elston I'd rather have the header bigger than the port.

Elston builds his headers with the header tube the shape and size of the ports. But his stuff is very cool, very expensive stuff.
 
From the looks of your photos. The gasket clearly fits the head. But the gasket doesn't fit the head so well. I would trim the gasket to match the header so it doesn't interfere with the entrance to the header.
 
440seven said:
I should have added these are already matched to stock style gasket. In this case is it even worth it to go any further?
Click to expand...
There's water not far above that little rolled hump in the roof just inside the face of the head there, in fact it's "in" that hump. leave it alone & focus on bowl work & a
great valve job, stock or O/S valves.......................................
 
FWIW, I have a complete and ready to go set of 906's headed to the recycling.... The guy who did the cylinder head work hogged out the exhaust side. As I understand it and this coming from reliable sources it will trash the flow capabilities of the head....

Mine were gasket matched also (and then some....)

JW
 
10/4 guys. Thanks for the responses. I'm leaving it alone. I'll post some pics of the rest of bowls later on today and see what you guys think.
 
Well here we go. Haven't touched these with the sand rolls yet but what you guys think? Did I totally destroy these or what?

image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
Yea I wasn't necessarily planning on running these. Just playing around with them to see what I could do. But yes bigger valves would be in the plans
 
Velocity man...velocity. Massive port Cleveland 4v heads work better if you use a port plate down low due to the velocity their 'obstruction' creates. they make them for both intake and exhaust.....
 
Little flow secret for You, the valve-job has a ton more influence on flow than most appreciate, and opening the bowl too much can ruin any chance of establishing a
great one. Since You're learning from scratch, (and almost ALL of Us did), and You don't have a flowbench to learn with, You should invest in some research and even
better... buy Mopars porting templates for the iron heads and start there. If You go oversized valves, don't assume they'll automatically flow wonderful, they won't.
Steve Dulcich did a small series comparing the different BB iron head castings, and the results of porting and o/s valves, check it out on Hot Rods Mopar Muscle site.
Had the links saved on My old PC, but the handle on the crank broke off!!!
 
Yea I was reading an article somewhere (wasn't the dulcich series) but this guy was pretty adamant about keeping the smaller valves to keep the velocity up. I did a good bit of research on the heads and the water passages and such, looked at more images and forum threads than I care to think of. I've basically only gotten rid of the mass behind the guide boss and removed the guide boss material, blended the bowls, and just barely smoothed the short turn transition.
 
440seven said:
Yea I wasn't necessarily planning on running these. Just playing around with them to see what I could do. But yes bigger valves would be in the plans
Click to expand...

You have some more off the seat blending to do, and the turn needs to be laid WAY back to pass 265 cfm.
 
440seven said:
Yea I was reading an article somewhere (wasn't the dulcich series) but this guy was pretty adamant about keeping the smaller valves to keep the velocity up. I did a good bit of research on the heads and the water passages and such, looked at more images and forum threads than I care to think of. I've basically only gotten rid of the mass behind the guide boss and removed the guide boss material, blended the bowls, and just barely smoothed the short turn transition.
Click to expand...
I'm not trying to scare You away from larger valves, just tipping You that simply seating them w/a typical 3 or 4 angle valve job w/o working the bowl & short side correctly
will leave You very disappointed........Mopar's BBs are obscenely under-valved for 400+ci versions, the common 2.14/1.81 combo is effective done right.
 
Everyone has their own opinions on the path to the best result.
As for me:
I port after the valve job is done and I won't use stock sized valves. One of the easiest improvements to make during any rebuild is oversize performance valves.
Valve jobs are 5 angle on a Serdi, and I use that throat cut as the blending point and I never will completely remove that cut. It's been my experience that having a little approach to the seat is much better.
I also tend not to remove much of the guide boss. It's shaped, but not ground away.
 
moper said:
Everyone has their own opinions on the path to the best result.
As for me:
I port after the valve job is done and I won't use stock sized valves. One of the easiest improvements to make during any rebuild is oversize performance valves.
Valve jobs are 5 angle on a Serdi, and I use that throat cut as the blending point and I never will completely remove that cut. It's been my experience that having a little approach to the seat is much better.
I also tend not to remove much of the guide boss. It's shaped, but not ground away.
Click to expand...


I agree. The valve job establishes bowl size and everything else.
 
When you put bigger valves in 452 heads aren't you loosing induction hardened seats in the process?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top