Help with hei install

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Ryan ekes

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Ok so I'm going with an hei ignition on a point style harness in a 67 barracuda. My question is after I bypass the ignition ballast what is a good constant power source from the ignition that's easy to access. Is it possible to use the dark blue wire that's running from the ballast I bypass or do I need to keep the dark blue and grey traser dead ends ? I'm still learning with the whole wiring thing if you've done this before feel free to let me know how you went about it lol can't find the answer searching on line and definitely need to know thanks in advance
 
You may want to think about using a relay and pulling power directly from the battery terminal on the starter relay and use the blue wire as the trigger.
 
A relay uses a power source and a trigger... Such as an ignition on or key on wire... (Blue and brown to ballast)

The power source isn't available until the trigger tells it to be.
 
You need to wire IGN1 and IGN2 together, and pull your 12v from there.
If not you’ll only have power while cranking or in run, but not both
 
You need to wire IGN1 and IGN2 together, and pull your 12v from there.
If not you’ll only have power while cranking or in run, but not both

THIS.........IGN1 is "run" and GOES DEAD during cranking. IGN2 is the old brown wire that went to the coil + side of the ballast and is hot ONLY in start
 
Why make it harder then it has to be?
Just remove the ballast resistor, tie all the wires that were on the ballast resistor together. Then use the blue wire that connected to the coil, to feed the HEI. easy peasy.
 
Why make it harder then it has to be?
Just remove the ballast resistor, tie all the wires that were on the ballast resistor together. Then use the blue wire that connected to the coil, to feed the HEI. easy peasy.
You're speaking my language man ty for the answer
 
Im pretty decent at making it look clean
Than all u need is blue and brown to the ballast, tie em together for your source and chop the rest. It is easier than you think. Once you bypass the ballast, several wires such as ECU wiring, are all junk.
 
Than all u need is blue and brown to the ballast, tie em together for your source and chop the rest. It is easier than you think. Once you bypass the ballast, several wires such as ECU wiring, are all junk.

There are no extra wires, he does not have them. He has a points wireing harness. Just do like I said, in my previous post.
 
Condition of your electrical/charging system may effect how well the HEI functions. Twisting brown and blue together will send system voltage to the HEI but, Is that 12+ volts at all times? If idling in gear causes your amp gauge to move to discharge, headlights dim, etc.., Or maybe your 67 doesn't "currently" have this condition.
In any case, A more direct power supply to the HEI module and e-coil via a relay can only help.
The brown and blue, your ignition switch, everything in the path is/was barely adequate for its original duty.
 
Condition of your electrical/charging system may effect how well the HEI functions. Twisting brown and blue together will send system voltage to the HEI but, Is that 12+ volts at all times? If idling in gear causes your amp gauge to move to discharge, headlights dim, etc.., Or maybe your 67 doesn't "currently" have this condition.
In any case, A more direct power supply to the HEI module and e-coil via a relay can only help.
The brown and blue, your ignition switch, everything in the path is/was barely adequate for its original duty.
It's a complete rebuild with everything new but I'll take that into consideration
 
If you don't want to molest the factory wiring, use a male-male spade to connect the blue and brown connectors together, or make similar from a short jumper wire.
Relays are good. I put a 7-relay underhood fuse box from a Jeep in my 60's Mopars. Got rid of the factory starter and horn relays, but I custom-wired all under-hood since my wires were old and brittle.
 
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