Burned a Hole

SpeedThrills said
Soooo, it seems there's always something unexpected. I'm far from a pro welder, but I've had pretty good success.
I cut the rust out of my Duster project's doors and made nice little patches from cardboard templates to be butt welded in.
The doors are about .039", and the patches are .030".
I welded a couple scraps of the .030, seemed okay. I don't think I've welded material this thin before.
The welder is a Hobart Handler 140, set as low as it will go- 25 amps.
I then proceeded to make the mess shown in the pic. After this, I have a quarter patch, trunk extension and a tail light panel to do. Practice?
View attachment 1715105356

What wire and gas are you using? That can affect heat a LOT.

clementine said
Isn't there some trick with backing it with a thick piece of brass and it will suck some of the heat out of it so you don't blow through and it won't stick to it too bad so you can get it off......

(Heh heh i said blow ........and get it off)

But seriously, maybe one of the pros can weigh in on those theories.....smaller wire? Is your gas turned up?

Use Copper, it won't stick

Treblig said
You could always put a piece of metal on the inside of the door (if possible) to use as a back up. It has to be large enough to cover the whole area that you're welding. If the weld gets to hot it will just weld to the piece of metal on the backside of the door. Unless you're making a show car you just leave the extra piece of metal in there and throw a little undercoat on it. I use pieces of metal for back up all the time when I'm welding thin metal. Looks like you're blowing out the original door sheet metal as well so using a thicker "fill in" piece isn't going to solve your problem.

PS - There's a big difference between ""Burned a hole" and "Burned A hole"....LOL
treblig

Use a copper welding spoon or if you wanna a cheap trick, take vice grips, stick a piece of 20 gauge copper sheet in the jaws and use it as a welding spoon.