Cooling

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cuda620

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Any suggestions on a radiator for a Bigblock A body to keep it cool even in slow traffic? Limited budget to experiment...
 
I run a be cool 1,000hp model. Not cheap though..

Try to match up a generic alum rad to their specs.
 
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A complete cooling system is more than just a Cheap rad. The rad is a big part, at the same time remember the more HP you make the more air fuel you burn, and the more heat the engine produces. The rad and the Fan are the biggest components for LOW SPEED COOLING. The more air you can pull through the rad the better. A good Water pump to flow at the correct speed, a good rad cap to maintain the correct pressure, and a good 180-195 Degree T stat to open and close to keep the water in the rad and the block. Anyone who runs a 160 stat is not doing their engine any good, that stat will never close, it just stays open and becomes a restriction to flow. I make 525 hp Aluminum heads intake and waterpump. I run a Smiths 22" rad with a shroud and 18" fan. A good aftermarket pump and impeller and a 180 T stat. I run 180-185 when moving, in traffic 190-195 and then drops back down once i start moving. 190-200 is NORMAL operating temp of an engine, it is not overheating. And you need heat in an engine especially if you have forged pistons. The rings and pistons need to expand so the rings can seat. Just my .02 but hey you asked.
 
Any suggestions on a radiator for a Bigblock A body to keep it cool even in slow traffic? Limited budget to experiment...
Did the stock big block cars overheat? I don't think they even had shrouds on them. If you use a good radiator and a belt driven fan with a shroud you should be okay. If you are hot rodding the car then you might need to widen the core support and go with a bigger radiator from a B body or C body. For a street car you want to use a belt driven water pump with a big engine driven clutch fan. Hooking up a modern coolant recovery bottle is also a good idea.
 
I bought a brand new 68 Roadrunner in NY, 383, 4speed, and never had a overheating problem. I drove it to Florida in the summer of 69 and that thing was always running at 200 plus. When I got back to NY that summer it never ran the same. Before that trip it ran great, but it was never the same afterwards. Never ran that hot again in NY, but the heat had a detrimental effect on the motor.
 
Floridas hot anyways. Burnt my thigh ridding my HarleyDavidson down there.
 
I run a 180 T stat. I run 180-185 when moving, in traffic 190-195 and then drops back down once i start moving.

Anyone who runs a 160 stat is not doing their engine any good, that stat will never close, it just stays open and becomes a restriction to flow.

What do you think your 180 stat is doing when you're at 185-195? Same thing a 160 is doing above that temp.

The thermostat does 2 things. It allows the engine to warm up faster and provides a restriction to the flow of coolant. This is why you can run a restriction ring instead of a thermostat and MUST run one if you have an electric pump.

I'm not advocating running a 160, just want to be clear how it works. As a reference, my engine builder recommends a 180 stat in mechanical pump cars.
 
Just means i have to go up to a 195 stat then so it keeps cycling open and closed.
 
To further talk about the heat in Florida, my mechanical water temp. gauge was reading before I started the car.
 
To further talk about the heat in Florida, my mechanical water temp. gauge was reading before I started the car.

heck , that happens here in okla.

I have had my electric fan come on before the car was ever started that day.:D

Just kidding, but the mechanical gauge sitting at 120-125 when you get in the car is common here in the summer.
Steering wheels can give third degree burns here. (like my billet and black vinyl wheel)
 
Any suggestions on a radiator for a Bigblock A body to keep it cool even in slow traffic? Limited budget to experiment...
I went to the parts store and picked up a rad for a 74 dodge 1 ton dually. It dropped right into my 71 demon. Used a shroud that I got from the local chrysler dealer from the restoration parts book. Regular old clutch fan and the car never goes above 180. Dosn`t matter what the day or temp is outside. Been this way for 4 years now. Most parts stores that sell rads with have pics and dimensions or the rads in the back of the application book. Do the measurements that you require and pick a good 3 core that fits your requirements. Easy-Peasy.
 
I wound up running a 3 core Champion radiator and a 16" electric fan on my 416 seems to do a good job. No mechanical fan, no room.
 
I went to the parts store and picked up a rad for a 74 dodge 1 ton dually. It dropped right into my 71 demon. Used a shroud that I got from the local chrysler dealer from the restoration parts book. Regular old clutch fan and the car never goes above 180. Dosn`t matter what the day or temp is outside. Been this way for 4 years now. Most parts stores that sell rads with have pics and dimensions or the rads in the back of the application book. Do the measurements that you require and pick a good 3 core that fits your requirements. Easy-Peasy.
67 cuda, should be the same engine compartment. Thanks.
 
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