225 long rod stroker, HELP

Why do You keep repeating Yourself as if somebody was arguing this point or claiming to not understand it?
The only possible "debate" here is which has more influence, thrust friction reduction or rod angularity early in the power stroke, by flipping the OE offset. Again, who cares?
Nobody, not You, not Dan, not Me, are going to prove anything talking about the theories and effects. The ability to test and prove the degree of effect is very difficult.
A lab at MIT might build a test engine to quantify changes and dynamic impacts throughout the cycles, wanna pay for the study? Save it,..................................
The general consensus here is, don't bother with the long rod build unless You're planning on pushing for racing RPM's, which it sounds like the OP is not.
Now go have a beer & relax!!!
You're wrong about it being hard to prove. I've done it myself by measuring stall speed before and after swapping short blocks.
I did it with a 383 Roadrunner. Same top end, but a replacement short block that I reversed the pistons in..no other changes. Picked up 300+ rpm against the brake.
This all relates back to the long/short rod debate that started this whole thing. That long rod, increasing dwell time at TDC is using up precious crankshaft degrees with zero action.
I wish I had more time to devote to the Slant right now..I really love the little things, but business has to come first.
The engine currently in my car is just a mule I slapped together so that I could learn the engines basic personality.
I have one half in the works based on the later lightweight block and crank. That one I plan on doing some extensive head work on and assembling like a true race engine. Hopefully over the winter, I can get real with the thing.