Heat Soak Mini Starter

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josekh7

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guys I need some help, my 440 starts perfect when cold after 10min runing the starter struggles. I have checked all. my connections and all clean and well. my battery is in the trunk grounded well to the frame and engine to frame. I bought a Ford style remote solenoid but now I hear it might not work with my neutral safety switch.. please help!!
 
josekh7 said:
guys I need some help, my 440 starts perfect when cold after 10min runing the starter struggles. I have checked all. my connections and all clean and well. my battery is in the trunk grounded well to the frame and engine to frame. I bought a Ford style remote solenoid but now I hear it might not work with my neutral safety switch.. please help!!
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I did the same thing, ford piece went south. I installed a used mopar relay that came w/ my basket case, neutral start works now. The ford piece needs to be isolated so its not grounded if I remember right. Do ur self a favor an put a mopar unit on . I always wrap starters on any brand of hot rod. Timing has something to do w/ the hot start problem too. I run 21 initial, at 22 it will balk when hot on a fast restart.
 
i take several layers of heavy tinfoil and fold it up right nice and wrap it around the starter and tie it with fine mechanics wire if done with a little thought it looks good and works real good . as said timing plays a big part also .
 
jimjimjimmy said:
i take several layers of heavy tinfoil and fold it up right nice and wrap it around the starter and tie it with fine mechanics wire if done with a little thought it looks good and works real good . as said timing plays a big part also .
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I just got a Jegs email today.
Starter Heat Insulator... $17.99.
Cheap enough.
I'm thinking about one for each car.
Not much room between starter and header.
 
"There is a way" around the Ford solenoid / neutral safety problem. In the late 70's Jeep / AMC used a Ferd solenoid look-alike which had one extra small terminal. That makes a total of ......2 large and 3 small terminals. The added terminal goes to ground through the stock Mopar NSS

I would do some voltage tests. Measure voltage RIGHT AT the starter when cranking, first when cold, and then when trouble appears. You want at least 10.5V, the more the better. Then measure voltage right at the battery and compare readings. The less difference the better
 
jimjimjimmy said:
i take several layers of heavy tinfoil and fold it up right nice and wrap it around the starter and tie it with fine mechanics wire if done with a little thought it looks good and works real good . as said timing plays a big part also .
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no shorts yet ?
 
I have wrapped the starter in Lava heat wrap, the starter relay is new, I am runing the battery straight into the starter. I run 2 inch primary headers so the headers are touching the starter. it's a mini starter.. if mopar makes a remote starter please let me know which or the ferd one.. or can I somehow make the Ford remote starter work with the nss?
 
josekh7 said:
I have wrapped the starter in Lava heat wrap, the starter relay is new, I am runing the battery straight into the starter. I run 2 inch primary headers so the headers are touching the starter. it's a mini starter.. if mopar makes a remote starter please let me know which or the ferd one.. or can I somehow make the Ford remote starter work with the nss?
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I'm not sure if this will help you.. cheers. . . PowerMaster Starter Clock Position for TTIs
 
josekh7 said:
I have wrapped the starter in Lava heat wrap, the starter relay is new, I am runing the battery straight into the starter. I run 2 inch primary headers so the headers are touching the starter. it's a mini starter.. if mopar makes a remote starter please let me know which or the ferd one.. or can I somehow make the Ford remote starter work with the nss?
Click to expand...


I told you above, re-read my post. You either need to insulate the ford solenoid from ground and run the mounting flange to your NSS or else buy the AMC/ Jeep solenoid with the addtional post

The AMC unit has the bottom end of the magnetic coil run to a 5th post in the rear as the photo shows, instead of the ground mounting flange

I would guess that the "I" terminal would not be used in most cases. This normally went to the coil to provide hot spark in cranking, same as IGN2 does in the mopar ignition switch

amcsol.jpg
 
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67Dart273 said:
I told you above, re-read my post. You either need to insulate the ford solenoid from ground and run the mounting flange to your NSS or else buy the AMC/ Jeep solenoid with the addtional post

The AMC unit has the bottom end of the magnetic coil run to a 5th post in the rear as the photo shows, instead of the ground mounting flange

I would guess that the "I" terminal would not be used in most cases. This normally went to the coil to provide hot spark in cranking, same as IGN2 does in the mopar ignition switch

View attachment 1715114424
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at 67dart..do I still need to jump the starter?
 
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