833 pro shift rings.

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Randy Cope

Randy Cope

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Does anybody know where I can buy these pro shift rings to weld onto the gears. My third and fourth gear rings are beat to death and the gears are like brand new. I want to machine the old rings off and tig weld new ones on. Second gear is in good shape yet. Or if anyone knows where I can buy the input shaft and third gear all ready to go. Any feedback would be appreciated.

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hi, for what it's worth, I had a older pro shifted 833, couldn't get pro rings for it, I welded up the nubs and machined them in my lathe. fitted them. they were good for 4 years of drag racing, before having to reweld them, I welded them with heliarc . I used mild steel rod. also, I ran mobil one gear oil. that made a huge difference in wear. If I broke a gear, I would lathe the ring off, and lathed the new gear for it to fit, welded it on I stitch welded it, with four welds.
 
perfacar said:
hi, for what it's worth, I had a older pro shifted 833, couldn't get pro rings for it, I welded up the nubs and machined them in my lathe. fitted them. they were good for 4 years of drag racing, before having to reweld them, I welded them with heliarc . I used mild steel rod. also, I ran mobil one gear oil. that made a huge difference in wear. If I broke a gear, I would lathe the ring off, and lathed the new gear for it to fit, welded it on I stitch welded it, with four welds.
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perfacar said:
hi, for what it's worth, I had a older pro shifted 833, couldn't get pro rings for it, I welded up the nubs and machined them in my lathe. fitted them. they were good for 4 years of drag racing, before having to reweld them, I welded them with heliarc . I used mild steel rod. also, I ran mobil one gear oil. that made a huge difference in wear. If I broke a gear, I would lathe the ring off, and lathed the new gear for it to fit, welded it on I stitch welded it, with four welds.
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I thought about doing that but I wasnt sure how the mild steel would hold up. I sent liberty an email asking them if they would faceplate these gears that were pro shifted and supply the sliders. If not maybe I will try your suggestion. Thanks for the great Idea.
 
So perfacar, you're using mild steel rod on the lugs...but what mild steel? IIRC it comes in 60 and 70 series rods.

Also, when welding the ring onto the gear are you using that same mild steel rod? Seems I remember Liberty using some stainless rod...but I had that discussion back in 1985 so I could be wrong about that.

One last thing if you don't mind. What are you using for cover gas? I've been using 75/25 but I'm thinking of switching to Helium. I know it costs more, but I'm told it changes the way the weld goes down and it supposedly has a more narrow heat affected area. What do you think and what do you use?

Thanks
 
I was looking on Brewers Transmissions site and decided to convert my 4 speed back to its original state. I dont plan on it being run at the strip anymore and want it to be more streetable. Thank you all for your input.
 
Years ago I installed Toploader faceplate parts in some Saginaws. Basically split the Toploader sliders in the lathe and welded that to the side of the Saginaw sliders. Mig welded with a skipping tack weld arrangement, with air blast cooling in between welds to maintain the heat treat on the lug surfaces. As you can imagine we broke quite a few Saginaw gears over the couple of years we were doing it, wasn't that hard to salvage the faceplate parts for installing on replacement gears. Regular .035 mig wire with co2 shield works just fine, never had a problem.

Currently use the same method on my Faceplated Toploader gears, never a problem with the process. Here's part of a split faceplate that's been mig welded to the 2nd gear side of a non faceplate 1/2 slider (wanted to keep 1st gear synchro), this one went into my current Toploader...

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Grant
 
Randy Cope said:
I was looking on Brewers Transmissions site and
decided to convert my 4 speed back to its original state.
I dont plan on it being run at the strip anymore and want it to be more streetable. Thank you all for your input.
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If you do that, there might be a good reason to go with a 3.09 low gear set. I got mine from Passon Performance, and run it with 3.55s, and with a 230@.050 cam. I love it.It takes off like 4.11s
 
perfacar said:
If you do that, there might be a good reason to go with a 3.09 low gear set. I got mine from Passon Performance, and run it with 3.55s, and with a 230@.050 cam. I love it.It takes off like 4.11s
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I have a Dana 60 with 4:10 gears in it now. I already have traction problems in first and second gear. Lol.
 
Randy Cope said:
I have a Dana 60 with 4:10 gears in it now. I already have traction problems in first and second gear. Lol.
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FWIW I run a 3.09 first with a 4.56 gear. I suspect if you ask perfacar he is somewhere around a 3.15 first and a 5.57 gear. That's just a W.A.G. on my part...but I think I'm pretty close.
 
yellow rose said:
FWIW I run a 3.09 first with a 4.56 gear. I suspect if you ask perfacar he is somewhere around a 3.15 first and a 5.57 gear. That's just a W.A.G. on my part...but I think I'm pretty close.
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That's insane. I don't plan on racing the duster anymore. I just want it more streetable and reliable. I know the pro shift gears weren't a good choice for driving in the street but it was fun while it lasted. I have 2.66 first gear.
 
you know pro shifted trans are friendly on street, you have to know how to double clutch it, up and down without grinding. it's not insane, it's real world!!! it hooks up great too.
 
perfacar said:
you know pro shifted trans are friendly on street, you have to know how to double clutch it, up and down without grinding
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I did double clutch it on the street. It looked like they only engaged on half of the tooth and I measured the slider travel and it would travel back and forth about. 1-5/16" and the throw on the fork from third gear detent to fourth gear detent was 15/16". So I'm not sure if the transmission was set up properly.
 
if you have the ball and detent side cover, you have to lay the detent back toward the gear, so it will engage gear more. one the oldest tricks in the book. easy to do . I did that back in 79. all detents are not the same! also, no stops on shifter.
 
perfacar said:
if you have the ball and detent side cover, you have to lay the detent back toward the gear, so it will engage gear more. one the oldest tricks in the book. easy to do . I did that back in 79. all detents are not the same! also, no stops on shifter.
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It has the ball and detent. I think it would still work if the fork would travel further each way. The stops were removed from the shifter. How do you lay the detent back toward the gear.
 
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