1965 Valiant rearend options

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J Glenn

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I'm looking to upgrade my 1965 Valiant from a 7.25" rearend (with 4" lug pattern) to a 4.5" lug rearend ( 8.25" or 8.75" or bigger -- if i needed to for fitment.) I'll probably gear it down (maybe 3.90:1 or even 4.10:1).

Recommendations?
 
Look for a '59 Fairlane rear. 9" and almost indestructible. Parts are available and it's a bolt in. Another option is the new Mustang rear with another short axle. Easy to cut and weld the long side to make it shorter and move the spring perches if necessary. Will require surgery to the driveshaft but all the parts are readily available and cheap.
 
With my '65 (four-door) I flared my wheel wells when I transplanted a '70 Challenger 8 3/4 sure-grip (swapped the 3.55 for 4.56 ring and pinion). I moved the spring pads to match the stock leaf spring location and did not narrow anything else (used super stock springs, shocks, pinion snubber, and 10" slicks at the track). Driveshaft needed some fabrication/balancing.

65 Valiant3.jpeg


65 Valiant2.jpg
 
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Here's a good thread with lots of swap info. 8 3/4 rear end swap
There's dozens of threads about the subject here at FABO. just use "search" or look through the drivetrain forums. There's a hilighted thread at the top of the page with a dimension chart for 8 3/4 rears.
 
Been down this road quite a few times.

Cheapest and best solution in my experience. Dana.
 
8.25 or a Maverick 9". 8 3/4 will cost more than the car nowadays. Id look at 3.23-3.55ish range gearing in that light body. 4.10 rear will just go up in smoke. Motor? slant would need less rear as it doesnt rap that hard.
 
pishta said:
8.25 or a Maverick 9". 8 3/4 will cost more than the car nowadays. Id look at 3.23-3.55ish range gearing in that light body. 4.10 rear will just go up in smoke. Motor? slant would need less rear as it doesnt rap that hard.
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Finally someone points out my 4.10 comment! Slant 6. Big carb... Short term goal: burn-out. Long term goal: burn-out with limited slip and somewhat sticky tires and two people in the car. I want the car to be very fun 0-60. I don't do 1/4 miles. I don't take it to the track. It's not a daily driver so mileage is not a big concern. Top speed will be, maybe 70. Long term might involve a small turbo or something... don't know yet. That's a year or two off. Next year I'll be upgrading to fuel injection. I want a back end that will take abuse, but as you point out, it's a light car and I don't want a heavy overkill rear-end. I doubt I'll ever get to 300hpr or anything. At some point I'm more concerned about twisting the body/frame anyway. I also want a back-end with readily available parts (ie different ratios and LSD).
 
Parts and cheap? Ford 9. Cheap, Hard to beat if you dont want to go $900 a-body 8 3/4 and the mopar 8 1/4 has less options. Turbo and a tall rear end don't match up well. 273 and a tall rear are a good match though. A 3.73 and a small tire is pretty quick. I ran a 3.91 in a 65 V8 and it wasn't too bad on the road but I could roast that in 2nd with a 904.
 
pishta said:
Parts and cheap? Ford 9. Cheap, Hard to beat if you dont want to go $900 a-body 8 3/4 and the mopar 8 1/4 has less options. Turbo and a tall rear end don't match up well. 273 and a tall rear are a good match though. A 3.73 and a small tire is pretty quick. I ran a 3.91 in a 65 V8 and it wasn't too bad on the road but I could roast that in 2nd with a 904.
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Very interesting... I have no commitment to keeping the car all Mopar. (Right now she has a Motorcraft 3150 carb from a Ford Granada). So, does it matter what year Maverick? Do you happen to know the if the overall Axel length is close? (Mine is 53.2" according to my Frank Adkins book.. I haven't actually measured yet.) Would I need to weld on new leaf spring hangers? And did that have the same lug pattern (4.5" lug 1/2 inch(?) pattern)?
 
There's lots of Ford 8.8 rears being used, shortened by using 2 short axles. Rear disc would be a nice plus.
 
Rear disk? ....? short side 8.8 can fit, but the Maverick 8 is a bolt in if you pry your springs maybe 1/2 inch? Check around. The Grenada 9 was 58-1/2” sorry about the 9 reference on the Maverick, seems I remembered a 9 from somewhere.
rear-a10-jpg.jpg
 
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pishta said:
Rear disk? ....? short side 8.8 can fit, but the Maverick 8 is a bolt in if you pry your springs maybe 1/2 inch? Check around. The Grenada 9 was 58-1/2” sorry about the 9 reference on the Maverick, seems I remembered a 9 from somewhere.
View attachment 1715110540
Click to expand...

For completeness, I'm gonna add a few to your chart from my sources (though *I have not measured my '65 valiants axle!) But I think the measurements in your chart are not "flange to flange", mine are. But most importantly, this lists leaf cell spacing:
1963-1972 A-body : 7&1/4 : 53.2" flange to flange : 43.02" Leaf Center to Leaf Center : 10.09" center axle to center ujoint
1973-1976 A-body : 7&1/4 : 51.4" flange to flange : 43.02" Leaf Center to Leaf Center : 10.09" center axle to center ujoint
1973-1976 A-body : 8&1/4 : 51.4" flange to flange : 43.02" Leaf Center to Leaf Center : 11.69" center axle to center ujoint
Reference: Chyrsler Performance Upgrades, 1999, Frank Adkins ISBN 1-884089-40-2

Long story short, I need to look into this Maverick idea more... that might be a nice way to go...
 
J Glenn said:
For completeness, I'm gonna add a few to your chart from my sources (though *I have not measured my '65 valiants axle!) But I think the measurements in your chart are not "flange to flange", mine are. But most importantly, this lists leaf cell spacing:
1963-1972 A-body : 7&1/4 : 53.2" flange to flange : 43.02" Leaf Center to Leaf Center : 10.09" center axle to center ujoint
1973-1976 A-body : 7&1/4 : 51.4" flange to flange : 43.02" Leaf Center to Leaf Center : 10.09" center axle to center ujoint
1973-1976 A-body : 8&1/4 : 51.4" flange to flange : 43.02" Leaf Center to Leaf Center : 11.69" center axle to center ujoint
Reference: Chyrsler Performance Upgrades, 1999, Frank Adkins ISBN 1-884089-40-2

Long story short, I need to look into this Maverick idea more... that might be a nice way to go...
Click to expand...
Haven't seen a Maverick in a boneyard for years. They might be harder to come by than a good 8 3/4.
 
toolmanmike said:
Haven't sern a Maverick in a boneyard for years. They might be harder to come by than a good 8 3/4.
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Good point. If I go the 8 &3/4 route, according to my book, an 8 &3/4 A-body would bolt-on (except the drive shaft needs to be cut). And it's like 0.9" narrower on each side, but I bet that can be made to work. But what A-body had the 8 & 3/4 rear end?
 
66 to 72? Then large bolt circle 8 1/4 after that.
 
yes, this chart is wheel face to wheel face.
42.75 is the Mustang/Falcon perch spacing per a rear end fabricator, thats 1/8 per side pry bar wiggle room capable.

here is some internet banter..

43 perch center to cetner reference
'65 Ram American
'64 1/2-'65 Mustang
'67 Mustang
'70's Ford Grenada
'69 Firebird
'70 Dodge
43 ½ perch center to center reference
'71-77 Maverick
'70 Duster
'70 Nova
'71 Comet
'72 Dart
'72 Cougar
'74 Valiant

Take these specs with a grain of salt...Suspension Measurements
 
Too bad there's not some if those Granada 9 inchers. Some are disc brake.
 
I haven't seen a 9" in a maverick. They came with the 8". I have 1 in the garage right now that I plan on putting in my 63 Valiant convertible. Gearing is unknown, but since it has a drop out center, I can have a few around to play with. You can get lockers, spools and limited slips for them as well as aftermarket axles. Since tire size is limited, I wouldn't think you would have to do much to make them survive.
 
dibbons said:
With my '65 (four-door) I flared my wheel wells when I transplanted a '70 Challenger 8 3/4 sure-grip (swapped the 3.55 for 4.56 ring and pinion). I moved the spring pads to match the stock leaf spring location and did not narrow anything. (used super stock springs, shocks, pinion snubber, and 10" slicks at the track). Driveshaft needed some fabrication/balancing.
Click to expand...
Are those flares metal? and welded on?
 
RE: post #3--The flares are made with a welded curved, tubular, metal "lattice" which was covered with body filler (I traded an extra A833 I had for the body work). Grandma's pie kinda reminds me of what the skeleton looked like:

pie.jpg
 
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J Glenn said:
For completeness, I'm gonna add a few to your chart from my sources (though *I have not measured my '65 valiants axle!) But I think the measurements in your chart are not "flange to flange", mine are. But most importantly, this lists leaf cell spacing:
1963-1972 A-body : 7&1/4 : 53.2" flange to flange : 43.02" Leaf Center to Leaf Center : 10.09" center axle to center ujoint
1973-1976 A-body : 7&1/4 : 51.4" flange to flange : 43.02" Leaf Center to Leaf Center : 10.09" center axle to center ujoint
1973-1976 A-body : 8&1/4 : 51.4" flange to flange : 43.02" Leaf Center to Leaf Center : 11.69" center axle to center ujoint
Reference: Chyrsler Performance Upgrades, 1999, Frank Adkins ISBN 1-884089-40-2

Long story short, I need to look into this Maverick idea more... that might be a nice way to go...
Click to expand...
FWIW I actually measure 56.5 for the flange-to-flange. Not sure how they measured it.
 
None2Slow said:
I haven't seen a 9" in a maverick. They came with the 8". I have 1 in the garage right now that I plan on putting in my 63 Valiant convertible. Gearing is unknown, but since it has a drop out center, I can have a few around to play with. You can get lockers, spools and limited slips for them as well as aftermarket axles. Since tire size is limited, I wouldn't think you would have to do much to make them survive.
Click to expand...

I have one, also. Going in my 65 Valiant. Found the center at a swap meet a couple of years ago. 4.10 spool for $200. Two days later found the complete rear (wasn't even looking for it) in a salvage yard. Took it home for $100
 
We did the 8.8 ford Explorer with the long side shortened 3" to use 2 short side axles to center the hogs head in my 66 wagon. 3.73 Posi and disc brakes, it's a nice way to go. Running 285 wide 18's and they fit (very close).
 
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