/6 carb help

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dirty white boy

50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
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can any body identify this carb? need to get a needle and seat and float for it. runs great long as float ant sticking!! guess it could be a trash in tank issue to and acts like it, so im wanting to drop tank and clean it and replace float and needle n seat. where best place to get best parts for this any info on opening up this carb or dropping tank on a 80 D150 step side??? thanks for any help,..DWB

d-150 slant6.jpg
 
Holley 1945 one-barrel, as used on '74-up Slant-6s. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Best quality kits come from www.daytonaparts.com ; they have a better-designed inlet needle and seat. Put in a new float while you're in there. And do the Fuel line mod.
 
Holley 1945 one-barrel, as used on '74-up Slant-6s. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Best quality kits come from www.daytonaparts.com ; they have a better-designed inlet needle and seat. Put in a new float while you're in there. And do the Fuel line mod.
thanks slantsixdan!! exactly what i needed to know!
 
any of it,..said what thay had was a buy out and thay sold out. what thay make is for 1930s odd carbs???
Give a local Carquest/Advance a try, I just got a kit for My Holley 2210/2245 2bbl from them, not sure about a float tho'....................
It helps if You know someone there old enough & competent enough, NAPA may also be able to get them, expect to wait a bit.
 
Weird, they list your kit right on their site as a № 5560. Maybe they didn't understand your question, maybe they've have changed their biz model, or maybe they were sniffin' gasoline when you called. Oh well, there are ways around that. Pick up a Walker rebuild kit № 15560D, a Walker float № 100-13 (nitrophyll foam as original) or 100-48 (brass), and if you rilly want to do it up right, also snag a new old stock Tomco № 5302A kit for a couple of reasons: it means you'll have a usable float gauge (no brand of carb kits today comes with them any more; instead of the die-cut cardboard float gauge you get a useless strip-of-paper ruler), you'll have extra gaskets and parts for use now or later, and if you're lucky you'll have that new-design inlet needle/seat valve, which Daytona Parts calls the "Daytona Float Valve" as if they invented it, but which was called the "Duro-7 inlet valve" for many years by Tomco, back when there was money to be made by putting out a better carb kit than the other guys.

(…or you could just snag the one dude's two 5203A kits…)
 
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Just FYI, the CQ kit has the BWD engine management brand on it, but IIRC Borg Warner's carb-kit division was bought out by Tomco. It may have just been bad luck, but
I had two of those Duro-7 disc-style set-ups perform poorly/erratically on Me, I went to B/W kits from then on. Back when more than 60% of the cars I was seeing in the
shop still were carbureted!!
 
I had the same issue with trying to find the rebuild kit for my brothers dart. We ended up saying screw it and i picked up a stromberg that just needed a little custom work to the mounting side to get it to mount properly. We bought it after it was not running for quite a while, so the list is getting smaller. need him to save up for a new fuel pump and a new VR, but its getting there.
It looks quite wicked with a stromberg, even fits well under the hood!
 
been awhile but, pulled carb off other night finally and took top off it and it was very clean and all parts looked new so i removed a black plastic cap on needle valve(seemed it limit needle movement to me) and adjusted the float down to spects! put lid back on and back on motor been driving 4 days no issues doing great! float valve in kit i got was a size smaller so gonna see if i can return it!
 
Your problem was the float adjustment. You should have left the cap on there. Yes, it limits needle movement, that's its job. It wasn't put there at random as a prank for you to find and remove, and now sooner or later you're likely to have a real fun flood event.
 
Your problem was the float adjustment. You should have left the cap on there. Yes, it limits needle movement, that's its job. It wasn't put there at random as a prank for you to find and remove, and now sooner or later you're likely to have a real fun flood event.
i saved it just in case, random flooding was my issue! if it comes back before i switch to 2 barrel ill re install it but happy so far...DWB
 
Your problem was the float adjustment. You should have left the cap on there. Yes, it limits needle movement, that's its job. It wasn't put there at random as a prank for you to find and remove, and now sooner or later you're likely to have a real fun flood event.
you were right, had to put it back on today to stop the flooding! seems to be fine but it go back to flooding ill be putting fuel injection on it! runs great when its right!!
 
There's a lot of real estate between "My carb is flooding" and "I need to put on fuel injection".

New inlet needle/seat assembly + new (brass) float correctly adjusted ought to get you on down the road.
 
only carb i ever messed with that didnt frustrate me is a 4777 holley! like you said it was the float way out was the issue and i shoulda left that plastic cap thing on there to start with! was doing great went to crank it other morning and kicked of fast idle to soon an it stumbled and died, went to flooding when i tried to re fire! running like a top other than that and feel like itll continue! cant afford FI and fixing up old slant to keep away from computerized fi stuff so ant going there was just flusterd! if i have any more carb issues a new holley 2 berral would be my next move along with dulta duels but im skeerd mpg would suffer, im happy with it like it is long she acts right!! thanks dan, you the /6 man!!
 
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