Starting a BB Duster project

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I think you should put some sticky low profile tires on it, a heavy duty suspension and show us how well a big block car can do on the road course. :D

Either way, really like the car!
 
DionR said:
I think you should put some sticky low profile tires on it, a heavy duty suspension and show us how well a big block car can do on the road course. :D

Either way, really like the car!
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My Coronet is set up that way but the Duster will be a drag car.

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I wasn't having any success get the shocks to mount correctly to the shock plates that were on the car so I decided to build my own. I changed the design to use a thru bolt rather than stud since I think it is stronger and easier to work with.

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HemiDenny said:
Tie down hole in the shock plate is a nice touch.......A+
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Yeah I figured I might as well put some tie down loops in there while I'm custom making the shock plates. I did the same thing on my other car. They are just handy to have for towing or strapping down to the chassis dyno or stuff like that.

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AndyF said:
I wasn't having any success get the shocks to mount correctly to the shock plates that were on the car so I decided to build my own. I changed the design to use a thru bolt rather than stud since I think it is stronger and easier to work with.

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OK Andy How much for the trick shock mounts? :grabs CC and goes to Mancini::thumbsup:
 
Edorion said:
OK Andy How much for the trick shock mounts? :grabs CC and goes to Mancini::thumbsup:
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Not a product yet but I can sell you a pair of prototypes for $50 plus shipping. The prototypes look just like the ones in the picture but they aren't welded so you would need to weld the shock mount on to the shock plate. Shoot me a PM if interested. I have a couple sets of prototypes on hand.
 
Headers are here. TTI 2 inch stepped to 2 1/8. These headers are big so it will be interesting to see how everything fits together.

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I made a panel for the fender to hold the coils but I'm not sure how well this will work since the headers are so large. I might need to move the coils down to the frame rail or on the back side of the motor plate.

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AndyF said:
I made a panel for the fender to hold the coils but I'm not sure how well this will work since the headers are so large. I might need to move the coils down to the frame rail or on the back side of the motor plate.

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The car is looking great, can’t wait to see it all done. Why can’t you mount the coils on the valve covers?
 
Installing these headers is not for the faint of heart! I think they are designed to go in with the car on a lift. I don't have a lift so I had to jack the car way up in the air. Even with the car up in the air I had to use the bridge crane to pick the engine up a little bit for some extra clearance. If you don't have a lift or a bridge crane in your shop then you might be screwed. I'm not so sure that a guy could install these headers in the driveway the way you used to be able to install speed parts.
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I agree, when I tried to replace my exiting headers with 1 3/4 TTi's with the engine in, I had to get the front end waaay up in the air. Once it was high enough I was amazed they just slid right in. I work without a lift as well.
 
Andy, what size headers are you using?
 
with the motor plate I am surprised you did not pull the column and torsion bars....then drop the K down to slip them in from the bottom.

be almost like the guys with those funky coilover /rack front ends.
 
HemiDenny said:
with the motor plate I am surprised you did not pull the column and torsion bars....then drop the K down to slip them in from the bottom.

be almost like the guys with those funky coilover /rack front ends.
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That is exactly what I ended up doing. With the front suspension out of the way it only took me a minute to install the passenger side header.
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I started to work on the rear end next. My issue back there was that I couldn't figure out how to get the Dana 60 into the correct location so I could weld the perches on. A floor jack doesn't lift a Dana 60 very well since the housing won't sit square on the jack. I wrestled with it for a while then finally welded up a fixture for my trans jack so I could securely hold the Dana 60. Now I can move the housing very precisely and get the angle correct before I weld it in place.

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AndyF said:
I started to work on the rear end next. My issue back there was that I couldn't figure out how to get the Dana 60 into the correct location so I could weld the perches on. A floor jack doesn't lift a Dana 60 very well since the housing won't sit square on the jack. I wrestled with it for a while then finally welded up a fixture for my trans jack so I could securely hold the Dana 60. Now I can move the housing very precisely and get the angle correct before I weld it in place.

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Better have a fuel cell !-clearance. Rear looks like mine except for the girdle, no room for one w/ stock tank. I RUN 2" TTI`S IN MY 68 FASTBACK, W/ THE RAISED PORT HEADS. I HAD TO JACK THE CAR UP PRETTY HIGH , BUT SLID THEM IN FROM UNDERNEATH , while jiggling the starter. ALSO. VERY TITE I MIGHT ADD. ( DISREGARD CAPS !)
 
I still eat my heart out at the lighting you have in the shop Andy.
 
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