Who's up for some Saturday night ignition switch fun???

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hosehead

hosehead

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so the wiring was junk on my new d100 truck(73). So I found some decent used harnesses and put them in.
Basically, my problem is that the truck will start by jumping the starter relay but not with the key. Neutral safety switch is bypassed(grounded).
I show power at the switch in all positions that are supposed to have it except the orange start wire. Any ideas? Lights, wipers etc. all work. Thanks guys.
 
It appears you need an ignition switch....
 
That's what I forgot to include.(sorry). Two new switches, both same result. No juice to start wire.
 
One power into switch or 2? My manual is in the shop so i cant check. Im thinking you should have 2 b+ circuits into switch.
 
Don't spose you have a link to an online wiring diagram?

Where are you measuring the voltage at the start wire? At the switch connector? or at the engine side of the bulkhead?

If you are checking at the "switch" side of the column connector, "it's the switch"

Do those have a "seat belt interlock?" -------"Doubtful" I'd say
 
67Dart273 said:
Don't spose you have a link to an online wiring diagram?

Where are you measuring the voltage at the start wire? At the switch connector? or at the engine side of the bulkhead?

If you are checking at the "switch" side of the column connector, "it's the switch"

Do those have a "seat belt interlock?" -------"Doubtful" I'd say
Click to expand...

I have no power to the start wire at the relay connector, at the bulkhead and at the switch itself inside the column. Is it possible to get two brand new, bogus switches in a row? A couple of friends have told me they've had them be bad right out of the box.
 
Oh my little grasshopper LOL what have I done to make you disrespect me so badly? Had you come to me in first friendship I would have made your enemies suffer to this very day! LOL
hosehead said:
There are two thicker wires from fuse box into the switch. B+ circuits?
Click to expand...
 
Quite simply we need to make you an instant master of those 27 wires LOL and this can be achieved quite quickly and easily. I went and Googled for me 73 Duster wiring diagram and then pressed on images and found one that I liked all color coded and everything. Then I went down to the Office Depot with that information and have them pull it up on their computer and I said I'd like a copy of that not only a small one in black and white but a blown up one color. It cost me under $2. And now I was able to wire the entire car and again there's only 27. 1/3 go to your front lights, a third goes to your back lights and a 1/3 of the wires go to everything else which means about 9 wires.
 
I thought you'd be patiently waiting here on fabo to answer any ignition queries I might have.:lol:
 
I have a manual. Everything I can see is wired correctly. I guess I'm in for a fun day of untaping a dash harness tomorrow......
 
Aaa-- no. don't untape the harness under the dashboard LOL that sounds like way more work than you need to do. What do you mean grounded? The only trouble I've ever had with something like that is in that transmission wire. Make sure that Loop is the way it's supposed to be diverted. I remember just jumping it not Grounding it. Look at your wiring diagram and find out what color wire is going in and coming out of your ignition switch and see about jumping that? Seeing if it is in your ignition switch? Because basically there's a wire of a certain color going into the switch in a certain color coming out of the switch that when those two wires are connected makes the circuit so if you can find those two wires and one coming in and coming out you can jump it at the plugin of the steering column.

hosehead said:
I have a manual. Everything I can see is wired correctly. I guess I'm in for a fun day of untaping a dash harness tomorrow......
Click to expand...
 
Disconnect the connector at the column. Probe it and find out what is hot, it should be a large black "I think." That is your hot feeding TO the switch

Then hook it up and check the black and the orange while holding into "start." Both should still be hot in "start."

If that is the case, next stop is where the orange start wire goes through the bulkhead connector, and is a VERY likely suspect
 
67Dart273 said:
Disconnect the connector at the column. Probe it and find out what is hot, it should be a large black "I think." That is your hot feeding TO the switch

Then hook it up and check the black and the orange while holding into "start." Both should still be hot in "start."

If that is the case, next stop is where the orange start wire goes through the bulkhead connector, and is a VERY likely suspect
Click to expand...


Thanks guys. I will give a full report in the morning. I'm done for the night.
I believe the wire bringing power in is black and the light blue wire is taking the power out. I'll try testing them at the plug in the morning. :thankyou:
 
The wire which is start signal to relay is larger yellow. The smaller orange wire at ignition switch is to the lamp at PRNDL. The replacement switches are confusing. They have a small black wire that isn't required in all models. That extra small black wire was placed in the connector where your orange wire is supposed to be. So... get the red, larger black(s), blue, and yellow wires correct. Clip the orange out and make it up with male/female spade terminals beside the OEM connector. The extra little black can stay where they put it with no consequence.
 
Double thank you for that post I know there was a simple solution to this problem. It's not a major problem it's just one wire out of place.

RedFish said:
The wire which is start signal to relay is larger yellow. The smaller orange wire at ignition switch is to the lamp at PRNDL. The replacement switches are confusing. They have a small black wire that isn't required in all models. That extra small black wire was placed in the connector where your orange wire is supposed to be. So... get the red, larger black(s), blue, and yellow wires correct. Clip the orange out and make it up with male/female spade terminals beside the OEM connector. The extra little black can stay where they put it with no consequence.
Click to expand...
 
There's absolutely not one iota of rocket science in any of these cars or trucks.
 
Well, now all I need is a switch with a yellow wire. Lol.
I think the cars have a yellow start wire. In my manual, it's orange and is connected accordingly. I guess the next step is to test the switch wires individually and see if a different one gets power in the start position as it definitely isn't working with orange.
 
j par said:
There's absolutely not one iota of rocket science in any of these cars or trucks.
Click to expand...

The hell there isn't. Chrysler rockets took us to the moon, dude. All my Mopars are rockets. Even my 2-cylinder Neon!

OP: Screw it. You're not restoring it. Push button race car starter and rock till you drop and leave a beautiful corpse.
 
Check this out dude! I was talking about cars and trucks. Why don't you take another hit off your pipe and ride your rocket to the moon LOL
FYI the OP is restoring the truck and trying to do it correctly.

jos51700 said:
The hell there isn't. Chrysler rockets took us to the moon, dude. All my Mopars are rockets. Even my 2-cylinder Neon!

OP: Screw it. You're not restoring it. Push button race car starter and rock till you drop and leave a beautiful corpse.
Click to expand...
 
The switch in question.

IMG_1026.JPG
 
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