Engine Oil Cooler Install

Trans coolers typically have smaller tubing in them than oil coolers and will thus restrict flow. You don't want that. You ought to be looking at a cooler with 1/2" ID lines minimum. Adding the hose and any connections to the cooler is already going to add some restriction anyway.

I can't give advice on using the Earls type bypass as it retains the stock filter and thus is bypassing a some unknown (to me at least) amount of oil to the cooler. If it bypasses it all to the cooler, that is good IMHO, but I just don't know that particular part. I tend to use a remote filter mount for the reasons stated by diymirage. The Canton part worked fine for me; it is pricier BUT it has larger 1/2" NPT tapped ports as opposed to the 3/8" NPT tapped ports for the Earl's, so the Canton will be less restrictive and add less pressure loss.

I have ONLY used the proper barbed fittings and the correct matching oil lines for oil coolers and never had any leaks in 6-8k hard racing miles. So AN is not necessary at all. The 'proper' barbed fittings are NOT the type you would get for gas lines etc. They, and the matching hose, are made for oil, high temp and several hundred psi of pressure. I have put in a pair of AN-to-barbed adapter fittings at the remote adapter in an early A body, simply because it made installing and removing the system much, much better.