Any Chrysler Techs out there?

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zakimodo

zakimodo

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Would like to get your opinion on some issues I am having with a 2013 Dart 1.4 DDC misfiring/hesitating when accelerating hard (notice it at 3000 to 4000 RPM). The multivalve actuator was recently replaced at the dealer after it failed. I have replaced all coil packs and plugs.
 
partsman1965 said:
Did you use factory plugs/coils? They are very sensitive to upgraded or non iridium plugs.
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Plugs where purchased from Oriley but are the same PN as those sold at the dealer. NGK laser iridium (SIKR9A7). I will say that I have read all sorts of different gap specs anywhere from .020 to .027. Mine were at the high end out of the box.

Coil Packs 1 of them (#2) was replaced by the dealer when the multivalve work was done, the other 3 are the same mfg (BERU) and PN as the unit the dealer installed but come in a Duralast branded box (from autozone).
 
My dad worked at Chrysler you retired a couple years ago and I noticed I was having the same issue that you're having in my 2013 Dodge Caravan and will misfire on me randomly while on the freeway. Took to the to the dealer bunch of times they couldn't figure it out they changed a bunch of parts under warranty after 10 times I called a lemon law lawyer and they bought the vine back from me. It's somewhere in the wiring harness that went bad or got pinched during manufacturer that's what I was thinking what happened to my van because nobody can figure it out and I took money to Four dealerships even my dad could not figure it out and we have the scanners on it while driving. My opinion is if it's still under warranty keep taking back to the dealership after 10 times they cannot fix that problem you do by law have the right to get a lemon lawyer law and have them by the vehicle back
 
zakimodo said:
Would like to get your opinion on some issues I am having with a 2013 Dart 1.4 DDC misfiring/hesitating when accelerating hard (notice it at 3000 to 4000 RPM). The multivalve actuator was recently replaced at the dealer after it failed. I have replaced all coil packs and plugs.
Click to expand...
With no codes it seems that it is possible You have a fuel quality issue, have You taken a fuel sample, and are You running premium fuel or???????????? It sounds like a
lean or "dial back" response as the boost/cyl. pressures start to "hit". If the ECU sees any detonation it will take out some boost & timing to "fix" it, it will not set a code.
 
Had an issue similar to that on a 99 dodge caravan( in my past life as a dealership jeep tech), Chrysler tech had it for 3 days, and couldn't figure it out, so service manager handed it to me! I installed a data recorder, and examined the results. Vehicle speed 65, vehicle speed sensor 114mph, injector kill point was 104mph. No light, as sensor within operating parameters. Another one in 2000, car was a no start, no codes. MAP sensor was at 18 barometric pressure, again within operating parameters.I would take it to the dealership, where they can drive it with a data recorder attached to it, and record what all of the sensors are doing when it happens, so there will be no more parts grenades thrown at it.
 
Idling in park, wiring needs a wiggle test. Pulling on a harness and it stumbles, there be your problem. Had a weak coil yesterday,ran fine,but dropped spark under load.coil fixed it.
You replaced coils,so take a chance, swap one,road test, then swap next one And so on.
 
Killer6 said:
With no codes it seems that it is possible You have a fuel quality issue, have You taken a fuel sample, and are You running premium fuel or???????????? It sounds like a
lean or "dial back" response as the boost/cyl. pressures start to "hit". If the ECU sees any detonation it will take out some boost & timing to "fix" it, it will not set a code.
Click to expand...

I think you are on to something here. Last night on my drive home I was monitoring the MAP pressure on my scanner. I noticed that this miss always started at the same manifold pressure, ~70 Hg. Do the math and that is 34psi..... I think car is dialing itself back, it sounds like a car with a 2 step when this happens.

Going to check the wastegate solenoid. Seems like it might not be opening (or plugged) to send psi to the wastegate. I did test the wastegate by its self, it is functioning.
 
Agreed with Killer 6. Fuel quality can be terrible, especially this time of year.....my area is known for it.
I've seen symptoms like this with customers vehicles in the past.
In a case like this, I have recommended trying an octane booster with a fresh tank of fuel.
Every problem has to have a starting point and that's about the easiest and cheapest thing to try.
If you choose to try that, make sure you get a booster, not a fuel injector cleaner, big difference.
Secondary ignition has been replaced, so you can pretty well rule that out.
Possible fuel injector problem at higher rpm, watch fi data and test resistance of each injector if you can.
Otherwise, if you have the ability with the scanner you have, monitor each individual cylinder for misfire and see if it is just one particular cylinder, or a random misfire. Wastegate solenoid could have effect, rule it out first.
 
zakimodo said:
According to my code reader, no codes.
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My bad, you have a code reader.
This is an area where output control with a scan tool would be helpful to check the wastegate solenoid.
You can check fi resistance with a multimeter if you have one, and if the harness connectors are accessible.
Hope this may be helpful to you.
 
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