Engine overheating

I see you have the PCV hooked up, but where is it drawing fresh air into the crankcase?
I also see you have looped the heater hose from inlet to outlet, and you said you took the stat out. In that case I would plug that loop, else the water will want to go round and round inside the engine,getting hotter and hotter with every trip.
And the missing shroud
And the fan is quite far from the rad. Without the shroud, this is a no-no, as the fan finds it far easier to draw air in from the sides,than thru the rad..The stock-cam 318 doesn't absolutely need the shroud, if the WORKING fan clutch/fan is snuggled up to the rad to within 1 inch of the fins. You can go closer with a low-rpm engine, but as the engine winds up, the blades will tend to bend forward into the rad, especially if the air passes freely thru the rad. WATCH-OUT, the fan does not usually sit parallel to the fan. Usually the bottom is closer to the blades than the top.

PUT the stat back in, it sets the minimum operating temperature. I like a 195 for performance and fuel economy and for a long engine life. The stat provides a bit of a restriction, to make sure the water goes all the way to the back before turning around and coming back. The bypass is just for a quick warm-up, allowing the cold fluid to circulate until it is hot enough to open the stat.
An overheat in the driveway at idle is 100% a failure of the rad to shed heat. Either the hot water is not getting into the rad, or thru the rad OR it's not getting cooled on the trip.
The temperature difference from top top bottom should be about 30*F
The fan should be able to suck an 8.5x11 sheet of paper up tight to the front of the rad.
The water should clearly be seen circulating under the cap and should speed up when the rpm is raised.
Steam coming from the valve covers better not be steam, but rather blow-by, AND at idle the PCV should be sucking that up like a big old vacuum-cleaner. If it doesn't seem to be doing that, either it is faulty,the hose is plugged, or the engine needs a rebuild. Put a vacuum/fuel-pump gauge on the dipstick, and measure the pressure. It should measure a slight vacuum when you plug the CC intake breather, but NOT pressure.
And finally check your timing. Idle-timing can be 8 to 12 degrees, while power-timing must be limited to about 34/36. You can run even more idle timing if your T-port exposure below the throttle valves doesn't fall below a square shape.