cdnEHbody
Well-Known Member
Haynes manuals are junk. Even in the motorcycle world we know they make for the recycle bin. Fsm.
another overheating problem
- Thread starter Phily
- Start date
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Phily
3XL, loud pipes, loud music, loud weed
Good news. At least I think it is lol. Had doors hold pressure all good there. Head was also warped .009. So it's being resurfaced. Not gonna have it shave or anything. Told him it could go .100. But I'm not gonna have it shaved after all. It will be ready for me to pick tomorrow afternoon. Oh still need to check the block for it being straight so I need to do that. Hopefully this is why it was overheating. Operating should order a carb rebuild kit for the 2 barrel I took of the van, but I'll probably wait. I just need this up and running and ready for a trip to north Dakota if I end up going to work up there. And if I do and things go well I'll start getting ready to rebuild my other slant for the dart or save up and get a bigger motor although I love my slant
Phily
3XL, loud pipes, loud music, loud weed
Got the head back. .009 warped. So that is fine he didn't tell me to take out the stud bolts for the exhaust and intake manifold. Charged me another 48 cause the bolts were a ***** to get out I guess.
No I need to check the block. Can I really use plate glass as a straight edge. If so I was gonna pick up a piece at home depot or Lowe's. Gonna stop at AutoZone and getter a smaller feeler.
Head is nice and clean other than a bit of carbon left in the combustion chambers.
No I need to check the block. Can I really use plate glass as a straight edge. If so I was gonna pick up a piece at home depot or Lowe's. Gonna stop at AutoZone and getter a smaller feeler.
Head is nice and clean other than a bit of carbon left in the combustion chambers.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
The numbers I gave you took into account the thicker new head gaskets. Finding a thin, original metal shim type is not easy.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
The issue was probably the head. I'd take a chance on not checking the block, but of course, that is just working the probabilities that tend to have the head warp before the block. YMMV
If you had a known flat hard block of something (like some granite counter top), that was long enough to span 2-3 cylinders, you could use that hold some fine wet-or-dry sandpaper flat and run it over the block surface and just look at the pattern to look for low spots. I've never heard of using glass; I think it flexes some so how good could that be?
Can you take something rigid to the machine shop and check it against the machinist's flat so you know if you have something good? I have an older aluminum level (now aged and stable), 2' long that I had checked against a known straight edge use to true up ways on lathes; I now know that level is within .001" of flat all across so I have a good standard to use at home.
If you go to slantsix.org, there is an excellent article on the studs, etc., for the manifolds.
If you had a known flat hard block of something (like some granite counter top), that was long enough to span 2-3 cylinders, you could use that hold some fine wet-or-dry sandpaper flat and run it over the block surface and just look at the pattern to look for low spots. I've never heard of using glass; I think it flexes some so how good could that be?
Can you take something rigid to the machine shop and check it against the machinist's flat so you know if you have something good? I have an older aluminum level (now aged and stable), 2' long that I had checked against a known straight edge use to true up ways on lathes; I now know that level is within .001" of flat all across so I have a good standard to use at home.
If you go to slantsix.org, there is an excellent article on the studs, etc., for the manifolds.
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