Rear quarter lip mods?

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KnuckleDuster

KnuckleDuster

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I have found the 275 tires on my Duster are rubbing, either from passengers in the back, or the springs settling enough to allow contact on dips and bumps .
Just wondering if I want trim or roll the edges, and what is the best way to do either.
I heard from another car guy there is a tool that attaches to your hubs to roll them? News to me.
How else to go about rolling them?
If I decide to trim them instead, what's the best method?
Also contemplating +2" springs, I have Espo +1" now...but wanted to explore all options.

The damage to my tires is not bad yet, just enough to royally piss me off.
 
I used a hammer and lots of time and patience to fold the lip in on my dart. Don't cut it. The quarter panel is spot welder to the wheel tub on the lip. So if you cut too much off, you'll separate the panels and typically have a wavy panel.

My friend has a fender roller and I've used it on my BMW's with great success. But the darts wheel openings weren't round enough so I don't bother with it.
 
What techniques do you use to fold sheet metal in an arc like that?
 
I SLOWLY hammered mine flat while using a wood block as a dolly on the outer edge of the quarter. My car isn't painted yet so no worries there. I can get pics when I go home this weekend. A fender roller is definitely the way to go. I was in a pinch when I relocated my leafsprings in and swapped to a 8 3/4 at the same time and realized my wheels and tires were too wide to fit.
 
On my 72 Swinger the lips were pretty much perpendicular to the fender. To get them started I used a pair of channel locks, there are designated sheet metal crimpers that would work better. Just took little bites on the lip itself all the way around. Tacked a hunk of carpet to a wooden block and took the hammer to it.
 
I gained about 3/8" by trimming my quarters back with a cut off wheel and then smoothing them with a grinder. It's pretty obvious where the spot welds are located and I just used care not to go past them. If you didn't know that I did it, you can't even tell, unlike rolling the lip with a hammer and dolly.
 
this is why they make off set shackles, inboard leaf spring kits and wheel tubs - as stated above grind a small amount off if you HAVE to, but bending the metal is iffy at best and once you've done either, there is no going back.. relocating the springs can be undone. How much room do you have inside (toward the leaf springs)? Maybe it's time for a different wheel/tire package...
 
I got 15x8s under it and have 3/4" left on the inside. Spring offsets wouldn't get me much more room to the springs and then the tub itself would be raising it's ugly head. That was with rear spaced wheels.
 
Unconventional said:
On my 72 Swinger the lips were pretty much perpendicular to the fender. To get them started I used a pair of channel locks, there are designated sheet metal crimpers that would work better. Just took little bites on the lip itself all the way around. Tacked a hunk of carpet to a wooden block and took the hammer to it.
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THIS, I did the same thing, a pair of 3" wide duck bills, then carefully finished w. a hammer and soft back up on the out side. Would even be better if done in the hot sun,(on the paint). Will end up being a lot stronger when done , than cutting them. Altho I did mine before a repaint, even extended the front to the inside fenderwells.
 
I cut mine to just outside the spot welds, then rolled them, then grinded smooth so if it ever hits (which it won't), it would only scuff the sidewall and can't cut. If you try to roll without cutting the metal back first, it can wrinkle and pop the paint. I've done that too! LOL.
 
I'm thinkin when I go to put the big fatties under the back I'll have a pro match the rear fender openings to the same shape as the front. I mocked it up with cardboard, I think it would be a good look.
 
BrianT said:
I gained about 3/8" by trimming my quarters back with a cut off wheel and then smoothing them with a grinder. It's pretty obvious where the spot welds are located and I just used care not to go past them. If you didn't know that I did it, you can't even tell, unlike rolling the lip with a hammer and dolly.
Click to expand...

I did the same, I actually gained close to a 1/2" of clearance on my quarters just by cutting the lip back to the spot welds. I didn't roll it back any further, there isn't much point. The "bump" in the outer wheelhouse on the Duster/Demon/Dart Sport is the limiting factor if you cut the lips back to the spot welds, not the lip itself. The spot welds aren't perfectly in line either, I may have lost one or two taking it back a full 1/2". And like everything else I wouldn't assume all of these cars are the same.

You can see the difference in the width of the lip here in this shot
tireb-a_zps4efb0119-jpg-jpg.jpg
 
Mopar-Man said:
I cut mine to just outside the spot welds, then rolled them, then grinded smooth so if it ever hits (which it won't), it would only scuff the sidewall and can't cut. If you try to roll without cutting the metal back first, it can wrinkle and pop the paint. I've done that too! LOL.
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I didn`t pop the paint on mine. YOU went too fast !
 
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