So, I have a 1974 slant in my Duster, and I went to a car show last Sunday. After waiting in line idling about 30 minutes she shut off on me. Seems like when I get in traffic, and she warms up the hesitating starts. Runs fine when cold. I checked the vacuum hoses and everything looks good. Put a rebuilt carb on and adjusted the mixture screw about six months ago. Hesitation still there. Any common problems you guys could suggest ?
Slant hesitation
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bbrroowwnn
never re member
what carb? 1920?
abdywgn
dismantler
vacuum advance canister was bad on mine
slantsixdan
=..=
Problem is heat-related—could be fuel or electrical. Make sure you have the correct thick (about 5/16") base gasket under the carb. Make sure your manifold heat control valve and thermostatic air cleaner aren't stuck. Put a hot hairdryer on the electronic ignition control box and try to make the engine stall by heating it up. Same problem could afflict the pickup coil in the distributor or the ignition coil.
Parts store "remanufactured" carbs tend to be junk, but do the best you can with what you have; Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download, and Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Go through systematically and make sure everything checks out, including the valve adjustment. Do the Fuel line mod.
Parts store "remanufactured" carbs tend to be junk, but do the best you can with what you have; Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download, and Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Go through systematically and make sure everything checks out, including the valve adjustment. Do the Fuel line mod.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Did the car restart easily after it shut off? Or did it have to sit for some time (perhaps with the hood open) before it would restart? I am just trying to perhaps distinguish between probable electrical vs. fuel. If it restarted and/or sputtered while restarting, then I would suspect heating of the fuel being the most likely issue.
Do you run any old fuel or use ethanol free fuel?
I had two two issues on my SL6 that I chased forever.
The fuel line mod fixed some, and the rest ended up being a 1920 that was just flat worn out and was sucking air in from the throttle plate shaft.
A NIB economaster purchased from a member off SlantSix.org solved it all. May have even been Dan that I purchased it from, been a long time.
The fuel line mod fixed some, and the rest ended up being a 1920 that was just flat worn out and was sucking air in from the throttle plate shaft.
A NIB economaster purchased from a member off SlantSix.org solved it all. May have even been Dan that I purchased it from, been a long time.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
You never answered the "which carburetor?" question. Aside from that, 1974 engines had many vacuum controls on the EGR and spark timing systems, like a big disk beside the valve cover. Old rubber diaphragms get cracks which leak more when hot, which would cause an "idles lean" condition. Try plugging off vacuum devices, including your booster if power brakes.
Also heat the pickup in the distributor, they sometimes act up also when hot.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
That would steer me towards electrical as being more probable due to heat soaking. If it was heat soak of the fuel line, I would expect it to at least sputter when you tried to restart it.
I use ethanol free fuel(Rec 90.) I was looking at the fuel line and noticed it kind of rests on some heat related parts. It's a remanufactured carb. I forget the brand. Did a tune up and the coil is fairly new. Going to check those vacuum devices
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
And nothing says it can't be more than one problem rearing their heads at different times. You are on the right track.... order things as to probability, then be ready to work through each possibility.
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