Denting headers for clearance.

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LovetheA's

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I have a question about the best way to dent my header to fit an extremely tight fit between my mini starter and my torsion bar. I had Michael Schumacher modify my drivers side tri y header I bought off a member on this site. I have to give kudos to the member that sold me the slightly used tri y headers it was seamless. Michael Schumacher took the drivers side header and mocked it up on a real BB a body 4 speed car much like mine to get an accurate fit for modification. The problem is that I put it on my 67 4 speed GTS to test fit and it barely touches the mini starter and the factory torsion bar in the car. I’m moving to bigger bars 1.03 so I need to ding the header in specific areas to have a little more room. Is this do able without cracking the header or major damage? I thought the best approach would be to heat the areas up with a torch then hit it with a mallet until it has more clearance. I’ve never done this before and the tri y headers are quite thick guage steel. Check out the pics you can see the areas where it touches.

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a hammer does the trick....and don't think it will have a effect on performance, because it won't....here check this out

 
If they aren't coated(can't tell)hammer away.Even the coated ones can be dented to some extent without damage.I have found that a dead blow hammer and a block of wood works well.Looks like some of the thick welds can be trimmed for clearance.
 
I modified my tri-ys myself and used a full sized starter with ample clearance. It only took a minor modification to the header. Rod

header 1.jpg
 
I lay an inpact socket on it's side and hammer against that to make smooth dents on headers.
I had to gain some clearance to install a heat shield between my headers and the valve covers(raised port heads). I used a hughmongous set of channel locks to squeeze the tube, would work great if u have the header off and heat it up some, just mark it first where it needs clearance. Also use a shim between the channel locks teeth and the tube , so as not to mark it . Better than beating them w/ a hammer !!
 
a hammer does the trick....and don't think it will have a effect on performance, because it won't....here check this out




Really,run a car down the 1/4 with those bashed up headers..then run the same car down with a unmolested set see which run is quicker..those 2 are "morons"...
 
Really,run a car down the 1/4 with those bashed up headers..then run the same car down with a unmolested set see which run is quicker..those 2 are "morons"...

It is hardly anything.....Driver error such as reaction time, shifting etc. would account for more
 
I wrapped mine in a shop towel. Put a log underneath, and used a large impact socket. Hit with a heavy sledge hammer. Was really easy. Took my time. Didn't screw up the ceramic
 
Entertainment value alone is worth it to watch the video! Seriously though, torsion bars hate heat just like any spring so keeping an air gap around them is a good idea!
 
a hammer does the trick....and don't think it will have a effect on performance, because it won't....here check this out


Didn't we already bash this test to death in the typical FABO fashion on a previous date?
 
Really,run a car down the 1/4 with those bashed up headers..then run the same car down with a unmolested set see which run is quicker..those 2 are "morons"...
yeah.... steve dulcich doesnt know anything about building motors... especially not mopars....... they should fire him off the show and put you in there instead.... im sure those dyno sheets are lying to us as well
 
I think this guy started building mopar motors about 6 months ago.
LOL
mopp_0109_15_z-440_head_buildup-race_manifold.jpg
 
Hey believe what you want..most of the Mopar only crowd wear rose colored glasses...by the way prove me wrong..dyno numbers..LMFAO:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Thank you everyone for the feedback and yes the headers are uncoated so I’ll make the dings before I get them ceramic coated.
 
Wait don't those fancy tti a body headers have a bashed/flattened tube on the driver side?

Yep they do! :)

Making dents like the OP needs isn't going to be noticeable from a performance standpoint.
 
Hey believe what you want..most of the Mopar only crowd wear rose colored glasses...by the way prove me wrong..dyno numbers..LMFAO:rofl::rofl::rofl:
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Hey believe what you want..most of the Mopar only crowd wear rose colored glasses...by the way prove me wrong..dyno numbers..LMFAO:rofl::rofl::rofl:
i think i figured it out.... hot rod must've been paid by some sort of advertiser.... trying to get us to buy hammers.... those bastards
 
Thank you everyone for the feedback and yes the headers are uncoated so I’ll make the dings before I get them ceramic coated.
Perfect, I heat 'em 'til they're orange and use a piece of heavy wall black-pipe or such and drive it into the area with a nice BFH. Take extra care to heat it plenty in the area
of that weld on the weld itself to keep from causing a crack adjacent to it. Enjoy Your newfound clearance!!
 
i think i figured it out.... hot rod must've been paid by some sort of advertiser.... trying to get us to buy hammers.... those bastards


Hot Rod like every other magazine will print ANYTHING truth or not to get people to buy it:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:..
 
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